The top cenotes by Tulum & the best cavern diving in Mexico

If you are planning to go cavern diving in Mexico, you are up for some of the most surreal underwater experiences in the cenotes by Tulum. 

Literally thousands of sinkholes dot the entire Yucatan peninsula. They connect to form a complex chain of underwater tunnels. Some cenotes are like ponds, with large openings, others with just cracks for an entrance. You can explore richly ornate chambers with delicate stalactites and stalagmites, which is like a travel back in time. Swimming through the thick layers of hydrogen sulphide is one of the most eerie and illusory experiences you can get while diving. And an absolute highlight is just watching the sunbeams pierce the translucent water and magically dance on the bottom.

We have put together a list of the most captivating cenotes by Tulum, Playa del Carmen and Cancun. Each one is unique and you are bound to fall in love with these mystical blue holes! But let’s first start with the basics.

 

What is a cenote and how were cenotes formed?

Cenotes are sinkholes full of fresh water (from rainfall) at the top, which, in the deep ones, caps salt water coming from the ocean. They formed where cave ceilings collapsed to reveal wonderful turquoise pools. The word cenote originates from the Mayan word “d’zonot”, meaning “sacred well” which were believed to be the entrances to their “underworld” and a connection with the gods. These wells were also the only source of water in the dense Yucatan jungle. Therefore, they played a huge role in the development of the Mayan civilisation. 

The cenotes, however, are just entry points to the most complex underwater systems in the world, the formation of which dates millions of years ago. With the last ice age global sea levels dropped as water was “sucked up” from the oceans when it froze. What used to be a coral reef was now above sea level and the Yucatan peninsula transformed into a jungle. With time, rainfall (which is acidic) dissolved the limestone so that massive caves formed underground. With this water and sediment movement, gorgeous stalactites and stalagmites were created. As the ice age came to an end, sea level gradually rose again and the caves flooded.

As a diver, you can still admire all the extraordinary mineral formations in the cenotes. The main types of speleothems (mineral deposits consisting of calcium carbonate and calcium sulfate), which can be found in the cenotes are stalactites, stalagmites, columns, draperies, flowstones and straws. Today, the underwater caves and caverns around Tulum, Playa del Carmen and Cancun draw divers from all over the globe to Mexico.

 

What is a halocline layer and where can you see one in the cenotes by Tulum?

The top part of the cenotes is full of fresh water from rainfall. The deeper part, which is connected to the ocean, is filled with salt water. The layer where freshwater meets the denser salt water is called a halocline. The demarcation between the two is a blur, which visually reminds of a thermocline (change in temperature). You can see this phenomenon distinctly in the cenote Tajma Ha. Haloclines should, however, not be confused with the famous hydrogen sulphide clouds, which can be found in some cenotes.

 

Diving through a toxic hydrogen sulphide (H2S) cloud 

An incredible sight you can find in some of the cenotes is a thick cloud of hydrogen sulphide amid the water. The sensation of diving through this heavy smoke blanket is the highlight of cenotes such as Angelita, El Pit and Siete Bocas.  

The idea sounds kind of scary as H2S is pure poison. The cloud is a toxic gas created by the decay of mainly trees and leaves fell into the cenote as its roof collapsed. It smells of rotten eggs and your lips might get numb while being in contact with the gas. It is not recommended to remain in that layer for a long time as the gas can be absorbed by your skin. A short exposure, however, is not considered to be harmful. 

The cenotes with a hydrogen sulfide cloud are one of a kind! You should definitely put at least one on your Mexico bucket list if you’re up for an eerie experience.

 

Cave or cavern diving?

Cavern diving is the exploration of overhead environments with direct sight of the entrance and no further than 60 meters (200ft) from the surface. Anything above this distance is considered cave diving and requires proper training and equipment.

 

 

Why is it so popular to go cenote diving in Mexico?

Cenote cavern diving is nothing like sea and ocean diving. Imagine yourself exploring a cavern or a cave, discovering formations that took millions of years to create. Kilometers of underwater galleries full of stalactites and stalagmites. Now imagine doing this exploration in your wetsuit and scuba gear. If you haven’t done it, it’s hard to imagine! Cenote diving is an experience out of this world and can’t be compared to anything else. 

Also, Mexico is the country with the most cenotes on the planet. And the Yucatan peninsula is home to the three longest underwater systems in the world (Dos Ojos 82km, Sac Aktum 172km and the Ox Bel Ha 270km).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cenote diving in Mexico is just a magical experience – submerging in crystal clear fresh water through a crack in the ground amid the idyllic tropical jungle and entering a different era. With so many cenotes to choose from  you will want to experience a bit of everything and plan your dive days according to your interests and diving experience. We have put together a list with the most enchanting cenotes by Tulum, Playa del Carmen and Cancun to help you with your itinerary.

 

 

 

Diving in the most beautiful cenotes by Tulum

There are all kinds of cenotes for all kinds of divers: recreational, technical, cave, cavern, those passionate about geology and history, beginners and experienced divers. The cenotes have different shapes, entry size, cave formations and natural light penetration. Some of the cenotes by Tulum have proper open water entry like Carwash, Canavera and Dream Gate. Most of them have gallery system like cenote Dos Ojos. And very few are vertical sinkholes like the Pit and Angelita. 

 

Cenote El Pit

This cenote has an impressive cylinder-like form, about 40 meters (130 ft) in diameter. There is a layer of hydrogen sulphide with dead trees at 30 m (100 ft). The ceiling is beautiful and has plenty of stalactites at about 12 m (40 ft) and a huge draper. ⁠

⁠The highlight of El Pit is the way the light penetrates the water and the way the sun beams illuminate the whole cavern.

⁠

Scuba diving: Yes

Depth: 30m+

Level: Beginner and Advanced

Hydrogen Sulphide: Yes, at 30m (100ft)

Cave: Yes, 2

Snorkeling/Swimming: Yes

 

Cenote Dos Ojos

This shallow cenote is 9m (30 ft) deep. The entry is a massive overhang where both divers and snorkelers can enjoy a sumptuous decor. ⁠

⁠There are 2 possible routes – the Bat Cave and the Barbie line. The Barbie Line offers more natural light coming through the ground. That is why, we recommend to do it on a sunny day. The Bat Cave is a darker track but there is a cave full of bats where you can surface. The ceiling is a few meters above your head and has a crack letting in some natural light. 

 

Scuba diving: Yes

Depth: 9m (30ft)

Level: Beginner 

Hydrogen Sulphide: No

Cave: Yes

Snorkeling/Swimming: Yes

 

Cenote Angelita

Angelita is a perfectly round-shaped hole. It’s 30-40 meters (100-130 ft) in diameter with a 3 meters (10 ft) thick layer of hydrogen sulphide around 30 meters (100 ft) deep. The cloud encircles an underwater island made of dead leaves and trees. You can’t see anything while diving through that layer. It is like being in the thickest fog.

Underneath it is pitch dark due to the lack of natural light, which is completely blocked by the hydrogen sulphide. If you shine your light up you will see a dark orange-brown-red color.

As you ascend, there is a small cave at 17 meters (60 ft). Inside you can see some bones, apparently from birds (or it could also be from KFC, no one can tell for sure).

If you dive Angelita on a cloudy day or early in the morning, be prepared to experience a blueish colour in a quiet and amazingly creepy atmosphere.

Scuba diving: Yes

Depth: 40m (130ft)

Level: Beginner and advanced

Hydrogen Sulphide: Yes, at 30m (100ft)

Cave: Yes

Snorkeling/Swimming: Yes

 

Cenote Calavera

Canavera is a small cenote pretty close to Tulum.⁠

You have to do a 2.5 meters jump to get into the water but no worries, there is a ladder to exit the hole.⁠

Right underneath the hole there is an underwater mountain, the top of which is very shallow (only 3m – 10 ft). It is completely covered by green grass and algae.⁠

⁠The way to dive this cenote is called “zig zag”. You go away from the entry then go back towards it, diving circularly around the mountain.⁠ ⁠

This star shape route gives a nice contrast between the dark cavern corners and the natural light coming in at the center.⁠

During the dive you can see plenty of small freshwater fish. For the cave divers there are 4 caves entries around 18m (60 ft).

Scuba diving: Yes

Depth: 18m (60ft)

Level: Beginner

Hydrogen Sulphide: No

Cave: Yes, 4

Snorkeling/Swimming: Yes

 

Cenote Dream Gate

Dream Gate has an impressive cenote entrance. It is a huge hole with a steep staircase and a small island with some trees and a wooden deck in the middle.⁠

There are 2 routes you can take. Typically, you can do both on a single dive if you are not stopping at every single stalactite and stalagmite to take a photo. One is along the downstream and the second one is against the stream.

Scuba diving: Yes

Depth: 7m (21ft)

Level: Beginner

Hydrogen Sulphide: No

Cave: Yes

Snorkeling/Swimming: Yes

 

Cenote Carwash

Aktun-Ha means “cave water” in Mayan and it is the original name of this cenote. It used to be a taxi drivers’ carwash not so long ago and that’s why it adopted the name “Car Wash”. It is a lovely small pond near the road, full of pretty underwater lilies with a carpet of grass and algae on the bottom of the open water area, and some dead trees right at the entry of the cavern.

You dive Aktun-Ha by following a line deep inside in the cave and back towards the open water area.

If you are lucky you can spot a harmless little caiman around at the surface. 

Scuba diving: Yes

Depth: 18m (60ft)

Level: Beginner

Hydrogen Sulphide: No

Cave: Yes, 2

Snorkeling/Swimming: Yes

 

Cenote diving from Playa del Carmen and Cancun

Cenotes are numerous between Playa del Carmen and Cancun. The place to be is Puerto Morelos, which is located roughly at equal distance from the two cities. The famous “ruta de los cenotes” (route of the cenotes) worthwhile  exploring before leaving the province. 

Let’s talk about the amazing cenote Kin Ha and cenote Siete Bocas.

What’s so special about them? Firstly, they are not the popular cenotes El Pit and Dos Ojos, meaning they are not crowded. On top of being there alone with your guide, the topography and the entries are also atypical making the diving exceptional. 

 

Cenote Kin Ha

This cenote has 3 small entries but only 2 are suitable for scuba divers – with proper wooden decks floating at the surface. The third one is a 3-4 meters diameter hole and probably 5-6 meters above the water. It is a nice jump for the adventurous but not for a diver who is already geared up 😉

Outside the cavern it is very hot and sunny. Inside it is cool and the 2 artificial lights bring enough luminosity to see the entire hole as the ceiling is not very high.

The bottom is made of sediment and there is a 5 meter tall (16 ft) and very pretty formation called “The Monster⁠” which you can find on the bottom at 30 meters (100 ft).

⁠The 3 entries let the sun rays penetrate the water by powerful beams hitting the bottom.⁠

In the shallow, some very nice stalactites ⁠cover the walls and make the last part of the dive a true exploration and navigation between them.

 

Scuba diving: Yes

Depth: 30m (100ft)

Level: Beginner and Advanced

Hydrogen Sulphide: No

Cave: No

Snorkeling/Swimming: Yes

 

Cenote Siete Bocas

“Siete Bocas” means seven mouths.

There are 7 entrances but only 2 are suitable for scuba divers. Light beams pierce the ceiling of the cenote, making the dive very special as the “mouths” have different shapes and diameters and light hits the water at different angles.⁠

⁠At around 27 meters (90 ft) there is a thin layer of hydrogen sulphide and you can even dive through it.⁠

Scuba diving: Yes

Depth: 30 m (100ft)

Level: Beginner and advanced

Hydrogen Sulphide: Yes, at 30m (100ft)

Cave: No

Snorkeling/Swimming: Yes

 

Quick facts about exploring the Yucatan cenotes

 

• When is the best time to dive in the Mexican cenotes?

The cool thing about cenote diving in Mexico is that you don’t have to plan your holiday according to seasons. Diving in the cenotes is possible all year round. However, going on a sunny day is a must if you want to experience the magical way the sun beams penetrate the sinkholes!

 

• Water temperature in the cenotes

The water in cenotes is hardly ever exposed to sunlight. Therefore it is not so warm when you are diving in sinkholes and in overhead environments. In most cenotes, the water temperature remains constant throughout the year at around 25°C (77°F). A full 3 or 5mm wetsuit will be necessary to provide enough insulation from the cold.

 

• Visibility

The visibility in the cenotes is incredible and can reach up to 100 meters (330ft). Yet, bubbles from your exhalations will definitely make sediments fall like tiny snowflakes. 

Buoyancy control is very important when diving in cenotes. You don’t want to kick the bottom and stir up the sediments with your fins and make the visibility poor as if you were all at sea.

 

• What can you see in the caverns?

A beautiful world awaits you! Regarding the cave formations, you can see various stalactites, stalagmites, columns, draperies, flowstones and straws. Some cenotes have a halocline, hydrogen sulphide layers, fresh water fish and turtles, maybe even a caiman at the surface if you are lucky.

 

• Who can dive in the cenotes?

Everyone who is fit for scuba diving can dive in cenotes. As there is a vast range of cenotes in the Yucatan peninsula, your guide will pick one depending on your training and experience.

And if you have never dove before, no worries, your instructor will chose an open cenote as, in that case, it is required to have a direct access to the surface.

 

• Scuba gear for cavern diving

Cavern divers can choose to dive with a single tank (as normal recreational dive setting), sidemount (tanks attached on both sides of the body) or twin tanks (2 tanks attached together located in your back) but the single tank use is the most common. The only special piece of equipment you will need is your dive light.

 

• Guided cenote diving tours

The best and safest way to enjoy scuba diving in the Mexican cenotes is with a professional dive guide. Your divemaster needs to be full cave certified and dive with a double tank or sidemount. A great dive center, which can cater to all your needs, ensure you have a fun time and have your safety as the highest priority is KO’OX Diving & Adventures. It is one of the most well-established dive operations in Tulum and Playa del Carmen. With no more than 4 divers per guide, you are bound to receive the best service possible. The guys at KO’OX are also hard core cave divers, so if you are looking to get cave certified or just explore the Mayan underwater system, that’s who you’ll want to go with!

 

• Parks, opening hours and entrance fees

Most cenotes are privately owned. Some are located in parks, others are stand-alone. Opening hours and entrance fees vary. So before you go spending time on figuring out the logistics on your own (which, if you are not on site can be quite hard to do), we would recommend to book a worry-free double cenote diving (morning or afternoon). At KO’OX Adventure everything is taken care of for you, including the cenote entrance fees, a snack for in between dives and your transportation from Tulum, Playa del Carmen or Cancun. What is left for you is to just gear up and let yourself be amazed!

For the perfect dive holiday, combine the cenotes with some world-class ocean diving from the island of Cozumel!

 

• How to get to Tulum?

Getting to Tulum is quite easy and fast. You can take a bus, a shuttle or rent a car. From Cancun International Airport (CUN), Tulum is 82 mi /118 km. From Playa del Carmen it’s 50 mi/ 80 km.

Your cheapest option is taking the bus, but you will have to take into account the prolonged journey as you will have to queue for tickets, wait to board and possible make a few stops on the way. We would personally recommend to arrange a shuttle transfer wherever you are going in the Riviera Maya. It is definitely your most reliable and convenient option in terms of comfort and travel time and it will save you a lot of hustle if you’re traveling with your scuba gear.

About the author

Nicolas Cesaroni has adopted scuba diving as his way of life since his first dive in 2010 in South-East Asia. A few months later he was a scuba Instructor, and a new life began. He decided to live his passion on a daily basis and explore as many tropical destinations as possible. He’s been diving and teaching scuba ever since in the best destinations in the world from Indonesia to Mexico by way of Thailand, Sri Lanka, Maldives, Seychelles, Egypt, Tanzania, South Africa, Greece, Germany, France, The Bahamas, Belize, Honduras, Costa Rica, and Panama.

He has become an avid underwater photographer over the years and his favourite critters are the tiny ones. You can find his stunning shots on his Instagram account @ocean.nico. In 2019, he took time out and co-founded the Dive into Life blog. The following year, having missed being underwater every day and living on remote islands, he was back in teaching status in the Maldives, where he is currently working.

When he is not underwater or editing pictures, Nico is a mixologist and he loves cooking.