Sardine run South Africa | The best spots & when to go

The sardine run in South Africa is one of the most phenomenal annual events you can experience! During the months of June and July the largest animal aggregations on our planet takes place. It happens when thousands of ocean predators and birds chase billions of sardines. Images from the sardine run take up most of the introduction in the first edition of BBC’s Blue Planet. This just shows how exceptional and significant this event is.

All photos and videos in this post are by Helene-Julie Zofia Paamand

 

Everyone is chasing the same thing

The month of July in South Africa equals winter. When you sit in your wetsuit on an open zodiac for hours, day in and day out, you are tired of being cold. Since sunrise, our group of five has been scouting for gannets. It is the gannets that lead the way to what we hunt. They chase the same thing: Sardines! And the sardines not only attract the gannets, but also dolphins and sharks. That is what we have come to see. And that is why we sit and freeze.

After hours without going into the water, we suddenly see something in the horizon. Our skipper starts the engine and heads out towards the group of active gannets. Adrenaline and excitement spread amongst us. The day offered nothing but visits to the snack box so far, which is always a highlight, but now we have to hurry and get ready to jump in the water. 

 

Incredible encounters despite freezing to the bone

The eating frenzy of one sardine ball on the sardine run in South Africa, can all be over in 10-20 minutes, but at best we have hours. You never know. The divemaster goes into the water to check the activity. Does it make any sense to go in? Sometimes the sardine ball moves so fast that we can not keep up anyways. Other times it is more stable. This ball is moving really fast. We do not have a chance in the water, but there is really a lot of action. We enjoy the scene from the surface, so the joy spreads. Suddenly we even hear the well-known “pufff” which means whale. Everyone shouts: “Whale!”. But as we see the fin of the whale, “whale”, is replaced by “ORCAAA!” 

It’s the 10th year skipper Tyla and divemaster Franseau are working on the sardine run, but the first time they see killer whales. This is totally crazy.

We send the divemaster in again to check the mood of the orcas. Will they swim with us? And they will. They stay with our boat and watch us as we glide in and swim with them. As we try to jump in for the fourth time, they leave. The show is over, they have had enough. We are being rejected, and we are not chasing them further. We are happy about this crazy and rare experience, on a day when nothing else happened. This is the sardine run, one gets rejected and freezes, but it is highly recommended.

 

 

Why does the sardine run in South Africa happen – The fate of the sardines is to be eaten

Billions of sardines follow cold ocean currents during June and July, which pull up along the South African East coast from Cape of Good Hope to Mozambique. Sardines seem to prefer the cold water. They swim in shoals to increase their own safety. A single sardine will have difficulty avoiding a larger predator, but together the likelihood of being caught is less.

The predators collaborate too. Sharks and dolphins are constantly trying to compress the shoal from below, so the sardines come close to the surface. And from above, they are under attack from gannets, which are great at diving and can hit the water at speeds of up to 100 km/h.

The only weapon of the sardines is to confuse the enemy by constantly moving. Their very well-coordinated movements can actually do a lot. The sharks, in particular, are dazzled by the constant change of direction of the sardines, with which the sunlight strikes them differently, and the big ball goes from giving strong flashes of light to becoming completely dark. But it only helps so much. The predators have the upper hand  and the banquet can last 10 minutes to hours where the whole shoal is eaten.

 

Well-fed predators

It is quite visible on both sharks and dolphins that they have been well fed during the weeks that have passed. They are fat and healthy, but another participant is also benefitting from their hard work and can pay them for a delicious meal.

Just as the hunt goes according to plan, another predator is on its way. It has been waiting for the ball to be worked up and is now aiming to finish it all in one mouthful. It is the Bryde’s whale that shows up uninvited and puts an end to the party. In a few mouth-fulls the ball is gone! This is a rare encounter, but all the predators seem to have gotten their share.

The last whale you often encounter is the humpback whale. It is not part of the sardine run itself, but migrates North to mate or give birth during the same period. It does so in safer waters just off Mozambique, where there are fewer white sharks and other larger predators that may be on the look-out for newborns.

 

Fishing for sardines

Higher sea temperatures and overfishing have, for some years, put a damper on the sardine run. But fortunately, it has not become a permanent problem yet. The survival of large numbers of sardines, however, is an important prerequisite for the life of many species. In South Africa there are fishing quotas, but they are not well thought through.

The quotas merely ensure that the entire stock is not removed, but it has not been considered how many are left to ensure 1) the species’ survival and 2) that the species living of the smaller fish can sustain from it. And there are many indications that the fishing quotas are also not being met. In addition, there is a widespread, irrational fear of the sea animals amongst the locals. It is something worth keeping an eye on and fighting to change. 

 

What are the best spots for the sardine run in South Africa

The area between Port. St. Johns towards Mboyti is really the hotspot for the run. Some operations will have tours further South from Port Elizabeth or even as far as Cape Town. I personally have not tried these operations, but from what I hear, the density of animals spotted is very different.

You have to imagine, that this is a migration that starts and ends slowly. Animals come from all directions as the sardines starts to follow the colder currents heading North. So, you want to hit the party when the concentration of animals is at its peak. Not at the beginning, not at the end. There is also some timing in this, and again you want to hit the peak. This is also why, I will rule out Durban completely. Though the aftermaths of the run do appear on the shores of Durban, it is not an event to travel for. 

 

When is the Sardine Run in South Africa

The sardine run starts in the Cape in the autumn of the Southern Hemisphere. As the sardines follow the cold currents, predators pick up on their migration and start to follow along. The peak is when the number of animals is biggest. And this build-up usually takes 2 months. The peak can also last up to 2 months, which is why most operators are in the region of Transkei during June and July.

But this is Nature, there is no exact schedule. Many things need to align and hitting the peak when you have only got one week holiday planned, can be hard. Especially because it is also hard to know when the sardine run kicks off in the year. The infographic below will give you a better idea of how this works and you take your gamble on what week/weeks, you want to go. But let me also assure you, that a visit to this region, will not disappoint you. The ocean is amazing and offers so many surprises – also leading up to the peak weeks and again after.

 

What happens to the sardines at the end?

Upon reaching the coast of Durban, the sardines disappear into thin air (or deep ocean, if you will), and no one really knows why. One of the theories that has been going around is, that the sardines which have not been eaten die. This is based on the fact that they spawn on their way North, and just like salmon will die after spawning. Yet, this theory has not been proven.

Some observers even state, that they sometimes do a return run, meaning coming back South. And what is even more interesting is, that the hatching of the eggs can happen anywhere along the coast at any time.

So in fact there is still very little exact knowledge as to the life cycle of the sardines. But one thing is certain, if we mess with it, we will very likely create a domino effect that we cannot even start to comprehend.

 

Sleep – Eat – Launch – Dive – Repeat

You probably know a similar expression from liveaboards or other vacations where diving is the main purpose and the sardine run in South Africa is no exception. Still, I think the rhythm here is a little different and worth explaining. I have been away for the past 3 years and I am constantly developing better habits and packing lists, because this holiday, despite many amenities, also offers elements that can really take your breath away.

 

Sleep 

The alarm rings for the first time at 5:40. The tip of my nose is ice cold. I am alright, because I am wearing a beanie and my thermal ski underwear in bed. I have even expanded my travel kit with a heating blanket so I sleep all night without waking up from shivering. The problem now is that I have to get out of bed, and the cabin is cold! I take off, grab the coat, close my camera and hurry up to the restaurant where breakfast is ready at 6:00. If I win the race, I get a seat close to the fireplace.

 

Eat

The next thing on the agenda is eating – a lot. A good, heavy breakfast with lots of power and coffee! Definitely coffee. Then it is back to the cold room, brush my teeth and then comes the worst part of the morning: putting on my wetsuit! I am one of the lucky ones, because my open cell suit actually dries during the night. The downside is that it has to be wet for me to put in on – I use warm water though. All the exercise to put on the suit makes me a bit warmer. Then I put on my hat, gloves and a good sailing jacket and I am off to the beach. Unfortunately, you have to cross a river to reach the coast, so now I am again cold and wet to about navel height.

 

Launch

7:00. The boats are put in the water. This is done together with the crew. We have to go through a very strong surf and it takes courage, timing and experience to succeed. But it is also really exciting, and although I am just the little one who is allowed to jump on board as one of the first, I feel a bit like an action hero. The skipper flies the boat over the waves and we are off. Meanwhile, the sun rises and the hunt begins.

The next 5-7 hours we are on the boat. As mentioned, we are scouting for gannets. Both from the boats, but also from the air where Larry aka Sparrow flies in his microlight. He can see much longer and spot shadows from larger shoals of sardines. And if not much happens, he can guide us to the migrating humpback whales.

 

Dive

Of course, it is all about getting in the water with as many animals as possible and for as long as possible. But it takes endurance! I practice swimming and freediving in Denmark from around March until my departure in July. Especially the long fins that I do not otherwise use for scuba diving require a little getting used to. And then I train my arms so I can handle the many times I have to pull myself back in the boat.

There are many opportunities for good experiences in the water. Most of which are free dives, but on board we also have our scuba gear. If the sardine ball is really big and steady, we can dive along the dolphins and sharks. I would say this happens twice a week on an average.

 

 

Being in the water with many predators during the sardine run in South Africa

I would like to try describing why I am completely captivated by this kind of diving experience and voluntarily leave the beautiful Danish summer for the third year in a row. During a regular dive holiday, we usually do not see the fish when they are fighting for survival. Either we do not see it because we are diving at the wrong time, or because our presence shuts down that kind of activity as the fish now must relate to us.

When we slip into the soup of predators on the sardine run in South Africa the many dolphins and sharks could not care less about us. They do not have the time nor the desire to relate to us. We must relate to them and make sure we are not in the way.

From above, we are under a constant missile-like attack from the gannets, which do not get intimidated by our dark, bubbling shadows. The sound when they hit the water is incredible and it mixes with the dolphins’ clicks, which is a part of their attack coordination. The sharks are naturally quiet but sneak around in the background and like to approach from behind. Behind all this, you can hear the whales singing.

We are absolutely insignificant while the party goes on. Our most important task is to enjoy it to the fullest, share what we have experienced and help ensure that it will continue. It is an absolute honour to watch the most well-adapted sea predators succeed in their efforts.

What is more, on days when there are no sardines to be found, we are able to introduce ourselves to dolphins and sometimes even to whales. The dolphins are playful, welcome us in their element and are entertained by these less agile beings in the water.

 

Unspoiled nature and wild landscapes

When the sun is at its peak, it is time to return to the beach where it all started. It fits perfectly. You are tired and hungry, but also very happy. Even if the days are sometimes uneventful, or you have seen something as unexpected as the two killer whales, you are happy.

The many hours on the water are therapy and the point is not so much to get it all but to be there. And it is really not just something I say. You are in the right place, at the right time, and there is constantly magic in the air. I have talked to several people about it and what we experience once a year becomes part of us, and we do it again and again.

A part of the experience is the landscape around Mboyti. After lunch, we wrap ourselves in warm clothing and under the clear African winter sky we go over cane and rock on the back of a jeep towards completely untouched waterfalls and magnificent viewpoints.

The entire region is a large, raised plateau, intersected by canyons and valleys. It is very impassable, dramatic and exceptionally beautiful. Transkei or Pondoland, as the region is called, is the last area that became part of modern South Africa in the 18th century. But because it is so impassable, neither lifestyle, language nor culture has changed much since then.

In the evening a tasty meal is served and depending on the fatigue at this point, we have a few drinks at the bar or go to bed early. The last night offers traditional braii, as South Africans call it when grilling. At this braii you finally get warm again and the food is really delicious.

 

Back to civilization

A trip to South Africa only with a sardine run in mind can end here. It did it for me the first year. I was driven straight to the airport and flew home. It was a bit of a cold turkey to suddenly be back in the modern world. In the following years, I decided to add a small week of diving in Umkomaas. There you can find Aliwal Shoal – a marine protected area with beautiful reefs, a variety of life and lots of sharks.

Umkomaas is also one of Dive into Life’s top places to learn scuba diving!

At this time of the year, you will mainly see oceanic black-tip and ragged tooth sharks. With some luck, other sharks may emerge, but tiger sharks and bull sharks typically visit these waters in February and March. I consider it a soft landing or transition back to civilization and it is very welcome for both mind and body. The city of Umkomaas is conveniently located 50 minutes from Durban Airport. 

 

South Africa offers so much more

As mentioned, you can travel to South Africa on several seasons for different purposes. Also, do not forget that South Africa is known for diving in cages with the beautiful white shark. It can be experienced further south, close to Cape Town, and the season for this is in our (North hemisphere) winter, their summer. The trip to South Africa can also be combined with much more than diving.

The East Coast is known for great surfing spots and the area around Cape Town is especially good for kite surfing. Of course, the country is also known for its national parks, where you can see “the big five”, which are lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and water buffalo.

In Dragensberg, on the border to Lesotho, there are limitless hiking possibilities. You can actually spend most of two weeks exploring the very varied landscape. The sky is really the limit. A saying that may be a bit worn, but I have travelled to many places where the variation is great too, but most often the logistics are somewhat complicated and time-consuming. I experience South Africa as an easy country to travel in with a combination of relatively cheap domestic flights and rental cars.

 

Travel facts about South Africa

 

Geography

South Africa is the southernmost country in Africa and has nearly 3000 km of coastline extending from the southern Atlantic Ocean into the Indian Ocean. There are 57 million people living, and there are 11 official languages, the largest of which is Afrikaans, which originated from time of the Dutch colonization, and English which came there for the same reason. The country offers huge scenic variation from savannah to jungle to large agricultural areas and mountains where sometimes snow can fall.

 

Travel

All international flights land in either Johannesburg or Cape Town, the two airports where you can immigrate. Upon immigration, all luggage is checked out and must be checked in again for further flights. From the two airports you can travel to a number of smaller airports. Departure can be done without traveling via the two main airports, so you can save a stopover if you travel directly out of eg. Durban. Therefore, consider booking outbound and return trips separately and see what provides the shortest and most convenient trip. Also, book domestic flights separately and through South African web portals, to make sure baggage rules are in line with your needs. Oftenit is cheaper and more convenient to fly business on domestic flights, thereby giving you the right to an extra bag.

Diving

The diving itself is not very advanced and usually only dived with air. All dives are with guide, which also makes good sense. Even if you have experience with shark diving, the routines and sharks are different from place to place. I think that as a diver you have to be very self-driven when it comes to safety, checking equipment and getting equipment on and off. The level of service is still high, but you have to know what you are doing and be comfortable with diving from a zodiac.

 

Seasons

You can scuba dive throughout the year. However, the only time for the sardine run in South Africa are the months of June and July. Safari on land is also preferable in the South African winter, as it is dry and there is less vegetation on the savannah and the animals become easier to spot.

 

Language

Not everyone speaks English, but English will be understood everywhere.

 

Electricity

It is necessary to have an adapter. They have their own standard, also follow the English and sometimes the European standard. There is no general rule. I have come a long way with a South African adapter and socket, so I can leave everything to the camera and other thing in one place.

 

Health

There are hyber baric chambers in Port St. John’s and Durban. However, the roads around Mboyti are not paved and it is not always possible to get there, as the season is also characterized by naturally recurring forest fires. Check if your Sardine Run operator has a paramedic stand-by on boats. A paramedic in South Africa has a broader education than those we know from Europe can administer some medicine. You don’t want to end up in a local hospital! So make sure your travel insurance covers that you choose a private hospital.

 

Currency

South African Rand (ZAR) = 100 ZAR = 6,8 US$ or 5,7 euros.

 

Visa

Visas are issued upon entry into either Cape Town or Johannesburg. A 3-month tourist visa is provided to EU citizens upon arrival. It does not cost anything.

 

Communication

It is recommended to buy a local SIM card with data from Vodacom at the airport. In the store they can help with setup on the phone. WiFi is available virtually everywhere in South Africa, but most often the purchased SIM card will serve you better.

 

Safety

South Africa is the only country I have travelled to so far, where I pay close attention to the advice I receive regarding my security. In comparison, I have lived in Mexico and Egypt and travelled without problems in more than 35 countries.

The hate races in between is huge and no one is worse or better, but South Africans of European origin are a minority. In fact, they make up just under 9% of the total population, which otherwise consists of all sorts of mixtures. With a light skin tone one stands out and can quickly become an unwanted part of street fights. In addition, there is an expectation that it is worth stealing from a white, which is indeed the truth. As divers, we often travel with many values ​​and it is not unusual to do personal injury to steal a cell phone.

 

About the author

My name is Helene-Julie Zofia Paamand. I call myself an underwater ambassador. My journey started 14 years back when diving came into my life. At that time, I was living in Egypt, then later Mexico and in the Philippines. Quite early in my diving career, I became a diving instructor.

After teaching diving full-time for 3 years, the glory of life as a dive instructor started to fade. I felt I needed to stop while I was still passionate about the underwater world. I wanted to find a different way to bring this passion alive in others. And to be honest, I also needed time and dives for myself. I went back to Denmark, obtained a “normal” job and took my chances to travel and dive the world at every opportunity that presented itself. That has brought me to more than 40 countries, but I also dive as much as possible in Denmark.

I started underwater photography a while back and besides being active on Social Media, I have opened a webpage with a gallery, where you can support ocean awareness projects through purchases of my photos.

I aim to engage divers as well as non-divers towards a lifestyle, that will keep our ocean healthy – not only for us, but for all the animals, we share the planet with. We have to protect what we are made of, where we come from and what we are 100% dependant on – THE OCEAN.

I still teach private courses and take courses myself to become a better and more aware diver. And all this is to widen the corps of underwaterambassadors.

Join me on Instagram and visit my gallery & blog on Underwater Ambassador!