The wonders of muck diving in the Lembeh strait

If you are a muck diving addict then behold! The Lembeh Strait in North Sulawesi, Indonesia, is a treasure chest packed with the most peculiar creatures.  

Established as the critter capital of the world, Lembeh has a remarkable biodiversity. The black lava sand and rubble in the strait reveal a crazy concentration of unique and exotic marine animals. Macro lovers will fall head over heels with the muck diving here! You can be sure to tick off a huge chunk of your bucket list on a single holiday and even see species you didn’t know existed. 

Every dive is a marine biology workshop, observing bizarre creatures you would only see on the covers of dive magazines (you can guess where those photos were taken 🙂 ) In Lembeh, you will most definitely find some of the best muck diving in the world!

 

But what is muck diving?

Well, muck diving is nothing you would associate with a tropical destination – no vibrant corals, no amazing visibility, no big fish. Just gloomy black lava sand, muddy sediment, dead coral rubble and waste. 

The truest muck dive sites are those where the seabed is strewn with natural detritus such as rotting tree trunks, palm leaves, coconut husks as well as man made trash – bottles, cans, tires, fishing waste. These horrid, yet perfect (on that in a second), conditions can be found in the Lembeh strait.

Despite not having the most charming underwater scenery muck diving is highly popular.

 

So why on earth would someone swap coral reefs for muck!?

Coral reefs are so full of life, so diverse and so confusing to the point that it is hard to grasp this diversity. The exact opposite is the case on any muck dive. The plain seabeds expose the extraordinary habitants and unlike on coral reefs. Divers in Lembeh can really take time to observe each critter. You can even witness closely behaviours such as feeding, fighting, mating or laying eggs.  

You can forget about the crystal clear turquoise water associated with Indonesian islands. As the name suggests, the muck dive sites in the Lembeh Strait are outright murky because of the fine sediments and volcanic ash, which do not settle down easily after being stirred. But it is exactly this mineral-rich lava that breeds creatures to be found nowhere else. 

Forced to adapt to the harsh conditions, the marine life here is characterized by many incredible and endemic species. They thrive in the muck, using every single piece of junk as shelter. Some are masters of camouflage, others are true mimic artists. Predators often hunt using a technique of subterfuge. Preys on the other hand display vivid warnings of their venom as a means of defence. 

It is a real bliss to observe these rare little beasts and be able to take photos of them in peace. (Something you will not get the chance to do on a busy reef, where the animals can quickly hide). The thrill of muck diving comes when you spot a bizarre frogfish or a decorator crab after having scanned the dark sea bed inch by inch. The quest becomes really addictive and once you get hooked, every dive becomes a mission – a critter hunt.

 

Iconic muck critters and how to find them

So you want to know what encounters you will have in the remote Lembeh strait? Well, the list is literally endless! New species are still being discovered as the popularity of muck diving grows. There are, however, some emblematic species you will almost certainly come across. You just need to let your dive guide know what your heart desires and he will take you to the right dive site.

The mutated frogfish are a favorite underwater sight for many divers. Here you will find many different species including the hairy, the giant, the hispid, the ocellated, the sargassum, the psychedelic, the painted, the warty and its juvenile the clown frogfish. You can watch them yawn or lure prey with their antennae – an absolute spectacle!

The next fascinating and extremely sought-after critters are the octopus. In Lembeh you can find the tiny and highly poisonous blue ring octopus. The transformation wizard – the mimic octopus, as well as the wonderpus dwell the seabeds too. And last but not least, the coconut octopus, which takes shelter in any shell or piece of trash. Another few highlights from the same family are the cute flamboyant cuttlefish and the bobtail squid.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The scarce sea grass is home to seahorses (pygmy, common, spiny) and pipefish (Lembeh sea dragon, ghost pipefish, ringed and banded pipefish). Sticking out of the sand you will find ribbon and snake eels. The number of nudibranchs scattered everywhere like pralines is unbelievable – Nembrotha, Glossodoris, Thecacera, Flabellina, Chromodoris. In the muck you will also find all the venomous fish – stonefish, lionfish, devilfish, scorpionfish including the gorgeous rhinopias. A very interesting sight are the ugly bobbit worms and the grumpy-looking star gazers seen at night. 

Wow, what biodiversity!

The variety of crustacean species on every muck dive is also impressive. You can see harlequin shrimp, boxer crabs, hairy squad lobsters, emperor shrimp, porcelain crabs, mantis shrimp, orangutan crabs, candy crabs and number of exquisite decorator crabs. 

And the most beautiful gem amids the muck is doubtlessly the mandarinfish. The best time to see these brilliant little fish is at dusk. Every evening (no exception!) they come out to mate. If you are keen on witnessing the sex party, you can book a dedicated mandarinfish dive at sunset. 

By now you should be convinced how special muck diving is. So read on to get more insights on the Lembeh experience!

 

The actual critter hunt – What to expect from muck diving in Lembeh

The Lembeh strait is just one of those places where you will have amazing diving 365 days a year. The water temperature varies between 24°-26°C in July and August and peaks at about 29°C between December and March. Visibility is generally poor (between 5 and 15 meters). But since you will literally be scouring the seabed that will not affect the quality of your dive. 

Muck diving is truly a critter hunt for which you will have to arm yourself with patience. The dive sites are big and the treasures you’re after are usually tiny and extremely well camouflaged – almost invisible to the untrained eye. To make the most of this unique experience you must go with a local guide. Irrespective if you are a professional underwater photographer or diving just for fun this could make the whole difference. 

For example, all the dive guides at Critters at Lembeh Resort are trained in marine biology and underwater photography, so here is how a typical muck dive would go with them: As they know the dive sites, critter habitats and their behaviours like the palm of their hand, dive guides will do their best to try and spot for you the nudi or fish you so badly want to take a photo of. 

There are more than 60 different muck dive sites in the Lembeh strait. One great aspect is that they are all limited to a maximum of 15 divers at a time. With Critters at Lembeh Resort the groups are very small, making the diving even more exclusive. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

During the dive itself

Your guide will carry pointers and stick them in the sand to mark different points of interest. Then he will split the group and send everyone to awe a different critter. You and your buddy will be able to take your time with photos. In the meantime, the divemaster will coordinate the group between the landmarks. As he does so, he will also write the name of the critter you are about to see on a magnetic slate he carries at all times.

Muck dives are usually rather slow and long, so you will not regret taking a 5mm wetsuit and a hood.

 

How to be an awesome muck diver

Here are a few things which are really good to know if you have never dived in Lembeh. We also share some best practices for the most experienced muck diving lovers. 

The most important thing is not to stir up the silt. The bottom composition at muck dive sites is very fine and loose. That is why it takes much longer to settle than normal sand. The last thing you want is to try looking at that amazingly rare and beautiful blue ring octopus through a cloud of silt because the previous person was careless.

So here’s what you can do to be an awesome muck diver:

1. DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING! Not only will this make a mess and disturb the marine life, there are also various venomous animals hiding in the sand that can sting you. 
2. Do not wear gloves – this will automatically reduce the contact you have with the environment.
3. Use a pointer – it will help you stabilize yourself and also minimize any contact.
4. Check your buoyancy – make sure you are streamlined and not overweight. Your fins should never touch the bottom and you should be able to stay still without kicking.
5. Do frog kicks – keep your fins away from the sand!

 

The underwater photography etiquette of muck diving

Lembeh is a Mecca for underwater photography and its biodiversity draws divers from all over the world. But the type of diving here is different, so there are a few rules to stick to when taking photos of muck-dwelling creatures.

1. Be patient and wait for a behaviour shot.
2. Do not harass critters or try to influence their behaviour.
3. Do not be selfish and show the creatures to other divers.
4. Treat other divers with respect. Take a few shots and then move away, making space for the next person. Check your settings and then return to the critter if you wish to take more photos of it.
5. Be kind to the little beasts. Remember they live in partial darkness so your flashes can leave them temporarily blind, disoriented and vulnerable. 

If you want to get amazing shots, try the microscope mode on your camera. Alternatively, use a supermacro or a close-focus wide angle lens and a snoot. The critters will really stand out on the black lava background.

And if your really want to up your game in underwater photography, then the Lembeh Resort is the place to be. They are the only dive resort on the strait to have a photo center and an in-house photo professional as well as a designated spacious camera room. You can also learn more about different species and their behaviour from the two resident marine biologists.

 

How to get to Lembeh and where else to dive in North Sulawesi

The island of Lembeh lies just off the north-eastern tip of Sulawesi. The closest airport is in Manado on the mainland. From there you will have a one hour drive followed by a short boat transfer over the strait to get to your dive resort on Lembeh.

Apart from Lembeh strait, there are two other areas in North Sulawesi that offer world-class diving – The Bunaken National Park and Bangka island. Despite being so close to each other, the diving is completely different. In Bangka you will find incredible soft corals, schooling tropical fish and the famous bargibanti seahorse. Bunaken is all about turtles, wall diving and the most dense and healthy top reefs.

If you fancy seeing more than the unparalleled muck diving in Lembeh, then you can combine all three destinations in one holiday by treating yourself to a Passport to Paradise, an experience made possible by Murex Dive Resorts.

 

Indulge yourself to the trip of a lifetime!

Pampered diving you will never forget! The readers of Dive into Life get a special offer when you book directly with Lembeh Resort – 5% off on all prepaid accommodation, diving and transfers. This discount is applicable on all prices offers quoted on the resort’s websites. This discount cannot be combined with other special offers.

On top of that, our readers get unlimited, unguided house reef diving at all three locations of the Passport to Paradise. And we promise you, those house reefs are something special. So drop us a line to get the discount code and let the dream vacation begin!