Freediving in Playa del Carmen, Mexico | Cenote wonderland

Freediving in Playa del Carmen, Mexico is an experience out of this world! The Riviera Maya and especially the area around Playa del Carmen and Tulum is one of the best places in the world to freedive. 

The sport of freediving (diving underwater on one breath without scuba gear) has grown in popularity in the last few years. It is a fascinating activity that pretty much anyone can try. With the proper training, freediving can open up many possibilities to enjoy the underwater environment in a natural way. You can experience amazing animal encounters that would not be possible or practical when scuba diving.

If that sounds appealing, then you should definitely take a freediving course. You will learn to freedive properly and safely in a very short time.

^{Photos by Álvaro Herrero | @mekanphotography} 

Where can you freedive in Playa del Carmen

Playa del Carmen is on the Caribbean coast of southern Mexico. The best freediving spots however are the inland freshwater cenotes (sinkholes). These cenotes were formed millions of years ago by changing sea levels to leave an interconnecting underground river system in the limestone rocks. There are thousands of these cenotes dotted around the jungle near Playa del Carmen and Tulum, with probably many more still undiscovered. However, not all are suitable for freediving.

What is it like to freedive in the cenotes?

Freediving in the cenotes around Playa del Carmen and Tulum have some of the best conditions to learn to freedive. Visibility is generally excellent, there are no waves or currents. The water temperature is constant all year round at a pleasant 25°C to 27°C (77°F to 80°F).  

The key to extending your breathhold time is learning to relax and that is made much easier when you are in the cenotes. Being surrounded by the sounds of nature and watching the sun beams dancing in the crystal clear water below you as you prepare for your dive is almost hypnotizing.

Something that is important to know when you are planning to freedive around Playa del Carmen and Tulum, is that these cenotes are privately owned. To maintain a high level of safety, access to these cenotes for freediving is only permitted with a local freediving instructor, who will act as your guide and provide and all the necessary safety gear. An entrance fee is payable to the landowners to maintain the facilities and this will vary with each cenote. To visit these cenotes for freediving you either need to have a recognized freediving certification, or take a course.

Some cenotes can be entrances to water-filled caverns and caves. Those with restricted access to the surface are obviously not suitable for freediving. The vertical sinkholes are the best for freediving and if you are based in the Playa del Carmen area you can enjoy the best of the cenotes both to the north (on the Ruta de los Cenotes) and further south (around Tulum).

Freediving in cenotes close to Playa del Carmen

Maravilla

This cenote was only relatively recently discovered by divers due to its small opening. In Spanish the name means “wonderful” and you will understand why when you visit this place. Surrounded by lush vegetation, the circular entrance is only around 5 meters in diameter. Underwater the cenote opens to a much larger chamber. It has a thick sulphur cloud at around 30 meters. It is, however, not recommend to freedive into the cloud because it can cause skin irritation.

Cenote Maravilla is probably most famous for its beautiful sun beams that shimmer through the water. Due to the amazing visibility most days you can see your body cast a shadow onto the sulphur cloud below.

Kin-Ha

This large cenote is accessed by a few small holes in the rock leading down to wooden platforms at the water’s edge where you can gear up.  Its large chamber is cool and dark as the sun only penetrates through the small entrances.  The change in temperature is very welcome in the hot summer months. The water is very clear and you can freedive down to around 25 meters.  It has some beautiful limestone formations around the edge. Bring an underwater torch if you want to see them.

If you can, you should freedive at Kin Ha during the week. It is popular with snorkeling groups on a weekend and can get a bit noisy.

Freediving in cenotes close to Tulum 

Angelita

Probably the most famous cenote for freediving in Tulum is Angelita. Many world-renowned freedivers have been filmed in the surreal surroundings here.

It has a large opening of around 30 meters in diameter and the cenote descends almost vertically. The opening was created when the limestone “cap” collapsed into the water and the debris formed a mound at the bottom. Decaying vegetation at the bottom creates a cloud of hydrogen sulphide. The gas gets trapped in the halocline where the salt water below meets the fresh water above. The spooky effect is amplified by the tree branches that poke through the cloud from the mound beneath.

If you’re a beginner freediver then you might not get to see the spooky tree branches if the conditions are not the best, but it’s a beautiful location anyway.

The sulphur cloud is at around 30 meters and there’s one spot where it’s safe for experienced freedivers to descend through the cloud to 35 meters.

Read more about the top cenotes by Tulum and the best cavern diving in Mexico.

The logistics of freediving from Playa del Carmen or Tulum 

When you are freediving in the cenotes of Playa del Carmen or Tulum the days will consist of stretching, travelling, and in-water training. If you are taking a course then your instructor will teach you some suitable stretching exercises that are good for freedivers. If you are already a certified freediver and just training with your instructor then you may prefer to stretch at home.  

Getting to the cenote

Travelling to the cenotes can vary depending on your location. From Playa del Carmen travel time can be anywhere between 40 minutes to one hour and a half.  You will be in a remote location so it’s important that you check that you have all your gear and have not forgotten any important items before you set off.

What to bring

Bear in mind that you are in the jungle and there will be mosquitoes and other bugs.  Sunscreen and insect repellent should be avoided to prevent contamination of the cenotes with chemicals. That is why long trousers are a better option if the mosquitos love you. If you must use repellent then choose a natural one and shower before entering the cenote.

When you take a freediving course you will learn that freediving causes immersion diuresis (basically, you need to pee a lot!) and so it’s easy to become dehydrated. Take plenty of drinking water and if possible an electrolyte drink to replace the lost minerals.

You should also bring some snacks for after freediving.  Fruit or an energy bar is a good choice, but you should avoid eating just before freediving. It is best to wait at least 2 hours after a small meal, or 4 hours after a larger meal.

Training duration

Expect to spend 2 to 3 hours in the water, depending on how many divers you are. If there is more than one freediver training, your instructor will assign the rotation to ensure a smooth flow. Even with a 5mm wetsuit, 3 hours is usually the maximum before you start to feel cold and tired.

Taking stunning photos and videos in the cenotes

Combining freediving with the cenotes can produce some amazing underwater photography and videos. A GoPro camera or iPhone housing can easily get you some Instagram-worthy footage provided you follow a few tips.

Use the natural light. Play with silhouettes or shoot from the surface and use the sun’s rays to illuminate your subject.

If you’re shooting video of your freediver buddy, opt for a slow motion setting on your camera as this can give some stunning footage.

Don’t touch!  This is the same rule as for scuba divers. Some of the formations in the cenotes are extremely fragile and have been there for thousands, sometimes millions, of years. Don’t spoil it for the next visitors.  And be careful that your long freediving fins don’t damage anything or kick up silt.

Most importantly – don’t forget safety. During your freediving course you will be taught how to keep yourself and your buddy safe while freediving.  Even in shallow water accidents can happen if these steps are not followed and it’s easy to get carried away when you are looking for that perfect shot.

If you are looking for something more superior to your own snaps, then talk to your instructor about hiring a professional photographer to take your photos. With their experience and equipment you will not be disappointed.

Learning to freedive in Playa del Carmen 

To start a freediving course you don’t need any prior experience with snorkeling, scuba or skin diving. You will need adequate swimming skills and good physical health.  If you are in any doubt, contact your instructor.

The PADI Freediver course consists of 3 in-water sessions (one confined water and two open water/depth) which can be completed over 2 or 3 days. You will need to complete some eLearning before you start and your instructor builds on this knowledge during your training.

You will learn proper breathing, relaxation and equalization techniques during the course and will practice four different freediving disciplines: static (holding your breath while motionless face-down in the water); dynamic (swimming horizontally underwater while breath holding); free immersion (pulling yourself up and down the line); and constant weight (finning up and down next to the line) to a maximum depth of 16 meters/55 ft. You will also learn proper safety techniques to avoid accidents, and how to help your buddy in case something does go wrong.

In this beginner level course most people are surprised to learn what their bodies are capable of. It is not unusual for students to double their breath-hold time on the first day of training with a professional.

Freediving courses in Playa del Carmen 

After the PADI Freediver course, you can take the Advanced Freediver course (with a maximum depth of 24 meters/80 ft; and the Master Freediver course (which has a maximum depth of 40 meters/130 ft).

These courses will cover more advanced techniques, rescue skills and theory that enable you to safely dive to deeper depths.  If you are thinking of progressing – either in depth or in certification – then it is highly recommended to train regularly and receive coaching from an instructor along the way. Progress in freediving is steady and your body needs time to adapt safely to the changes that it goes through when you dive to more extreme depths.

Freediving center in Playa del Carmen

If you are looking for a knowledgeable instructor to start your freediving adventure then a great choice is The GoPro Family in Playa del Carmen.  Their Freediver Instructor Jo is also a PADI Course Director, and with a maximum of 3 freediving students per instructor, they will ensure you receive quality training.

The readers of Dive into Life get a 5% discount on all freediving courses with The GoPro Family. You can get your code sent directly to your email with the form below.