Diving Raja Ampat & the extraordinary biodiversity of “The Last Paradise”

Invaluable tips about diving Raja Ampat and everything you need to know before your trip to “The Last Paradise”.

Raja Ampat, a remote region in the north east of Indonesia, has been labeled as the bull’s eye of marine biodiversity on the planet. Its reefs host so many different species of fish and corals that it is a true paradise for divers and scientists alike. Located at the heart of the Coral Triangle, Raja Ampat has become the place to go for any diver who wants to see pristine and remote reefs teeming with life. Raja Ampat is definitely at the top of any diver’s bucket list.

All photos in this blog post are by Jose Castellano, Biology for Divers

 

The Raja Ampat islands

Raja Ampat means Four Kings in Bahasa, the official language of this archipelago. It is formed by more than 17000 islands, and takes its name from the main four islands of the region. Missol, Batanta, Waigeo and Salawati – the four kings. Located in the north-east of the country, it belongs to the Indonesian part of Papua, and sometimes is also referred to as the Bird’s head seascape. Contrary to the volcanic nature of most parts of the country, the over 600 islands that conform Raja Ampat are made of limestone, product of millions of years of coral growth. This has produced a landscape composed of dramatic limestone formations engulfing blue water lagoons and covered in a lush tropical forest, a truly beautiful tropical paradise.

Raja Ampat can be divided in three main areas, Misool in the south, Dampier strait in the center and Wayag and Kawe island in the North.

 

The extraordinary biodiversity of “The Last Paradise”

What makes Raja Ampat so special, apart from the remoteness and beauty of its islands, is its marine life. Since scientists started to do research in this area, back in the 80’s and 90’s, it was clear that the number of different species found here is extraordinary. Its location at the very far north end of the Indonesian archipelago, just where a massive stream of warm water from the Pacific enters the archipelago, together with its topography and geological history, has made Raja Ampat the perfect breeding ground for an astonishing number of species. More than 500 species of hard corals and more than 3000 species of fish alone, have made this area difficult to beat. A dive site in Raja Ampat, Cape Kri, hosts the world record of most fish counted on a single scuba tank dive, 374 different species!

This species richness has created exuberant reefs where the amount of life is sometimes almost overwhelming, a perfect and unique playground for divers.

 

What marine life can you see scuba diving in Raja Amapt?

Even though this area has the world’s highest number of hard coral species, Raja Ampat is known amongst divers as the kingdom of soft corals. Big gorgonian sea fans and colourful soft corals cover the reefs and walls almost up to the surface in some dive sites. Hard corals are also ample and some famous dive sites, like Melissa’s Garden, have the most healthy coral gardens you can imagine.

Schooling fish are one of the attractions of Raja Ampat, with common sights of big schools of bigeye trevallies, barracudas, sergeant fish and fusiliers. From September to December, big congregations of tiny anchovies can be seen all over the area, especially in Missol. That, in turn, attracts predators like mobulas, which can be seen hunting in groups. A true spectacle!

Fantastic encounters

Raja Ampat has a big manta ray population, with regular sightings of both species of mantas. You can sometimes even see  them together, which is quite a rare sight elsewhere.

Expect to see sharks as well! White tip and black tip reef sharks are common all over Raja Ampat and the population of grey reef sharks has increased in the last ten years. This is especially noticeable around Missol, where the Misool Eco-resort has established a no-take zone together with the local communities. This has dramatically helped increase the fish population. Actually, Misool Eco-Resort is built on the site of an old shark finning camp.

Other species of sharks worth mentioning are the wobbegong shark and the endemic epaulet walking shark. You are highly unlikely to spot these anywhere else!

Macro life is also interesting, whit pygmy seahorses being the most popular macro subject among divers. There are four species of them in Raja Ampat: Bargibanti, Denise, Pontoh and Satomi, making this area one the best places in the world to see them. Ghosts pipefish, frog fish and a good range of nudibranchs are some of other usual macro subjects.

 

Diving season & What is the best time to go?

The best season for diving in Raja Ampat is from September/October to March/April. Then the weather is more stable and the conditions allow you to visit the south part of Misool. From May to September it is possible to dive in Central Raja Ampat from a land based operation, but trips to Misool will not be possible. Most liveaboards spend half of the year in the area of Komodo and the other half in Raja Ampat. So if you want to dive from a liveaboard, the season goes from October until April.

 

Conditions and water temperature

The water visibility gets lower from August to January, when the amount of nutrients is bigger. This attracts a lot of fish so it is the best time to dive with big schools.

The water temperature is constant throughout the year (28-29°C / 82-84°F). Raja Ampat does not have very deep waters so upwellings of cold water are rare. A rash vest or a 3 mm wetsuit should provide you enough protection.

 

How to get to Raja Ampat?

There are no international flights to Raja Ampat, so you will have to take a domestic flight. The main city and capital of Raja Ampat is Sorong. It is located on the main island Papua. The airport is Domine Eduard Osok (SOQ), to which you have direct flights from Jakarta. If you are traveling from Bali, you will have to do a stopover either in Makassar or Ambon.

All liveaboards leave from the Sorong harbour and if you are staying in a resort, you will usually be picked up there by speed boat.

 

The best dive sites of Raja Ampat

There are hundreds of dive sites in Raja Ampat, and every year there are new places added to the list, so it is extremely difficult to name only a few. The following dive sites are probably the best known, but there are many more equally good or even better.

1. Shadow reef (Misool)

This is a seamount at the most southern point of Raja Ampat. Because it is facing the open sea, the visibility is normally very good and the fish life is spectacular. Big schools of fusiliers, snappers, surgeonfish, barracudas, big napoleon wrasses, trevallies, white tip sharks and gray reef sharks are common sights here. Wobbegong sharks can be spotted here also and the corals are breathtaking.

It is best to dive Shadow Reef when there is some current, as this is when all the action happens. Manta rays are spotted frequently getting cleaned here. This is also one of the few places in the world where reef and oceanic mantas can be seen together. The reef gets quite deep (30+m / 100+ft) on its west ridge, but the top of the seamount is just 5 meters below the surface, so it offers protection even in strong currents.

This dive can be a bit challenging for beginners if the current is strong but it is really one of the top dive sites in the whole area.

Depth: Ranges from 5-35m

Divers level: Suitable for all divers from beginners to advanced, but certain areas are only advisable for advanced divers.

Marine life: Groupers, snappers, trevallies, barracudas, napoleon fish, manta rays, eagle rays, wobbegong sharks as well as white tip and gray reef sharks.

Insider tip: The top of the seamount is where most of the action happens, but if you are an advanced diver, there is a ridge on the west side that is worth a visit. It starts at 25 meters and it goes up to 15/20 meters in some parts. It’s quite long, so you have to keep an extra eye on your pressure gauge and NDL. The amount of fish here is spectacular and at the end of it there is a manta ray cleaning station. Totally worth the swim!

 

2. Nudi Rock (Misool)

This is a pinnacle with a rock sticking out of the water just in front of the Misool Eco resort and is one of the most popular dive sites in the area. It gets its name from the three trees that grow on top of the rock, resembling the rhinofores and gills of a nudibranch (it really looks like a nudi!)

You can see big schools of fish, really colorful corals and massive sea fans. Turtles and napoleon fish are frequently seen here, as well as barracudas and gray reef sharks. The north side is a vertical wall covered in soft corals. The south side has a little plateau at 7/8 meters and a ridge stretching out east. When the current is coming from the south, the ridge is covered in fish and you can spot the occasional mantas ray here.

Depth: Ranges from 0-30+ m (30-80 ft)

Divers level: Suitable for all divers from beginners to advanced.

Marine life: Groupers, snappers, barracudas, trevallies, manta rays, eagle rays, napoleon fish, white tip and gray reef sharks.

Insider tip: Don’t miss the overhang just below the surface. Soft corals and gorgonias literally grow up to the top, but mind your head, the swell can push you against the ceiling of the rock!

On the east side of the dive site there is a sandy bottom at around 25m depth where schools of barracudas are commonly spotted. If you continue east, you will find a ridge, which leads to another dive site, Batu kecil. It is possible to visit it on the same dive and it is best with south current, but don’t forget to tell your tender drivers, since it’s quite far.

 

3. Boo Windows

Probably one of the most iconic and frequently published underwater photos of Raja Ampat. The swim-through under this rock sticking out of the water just East of Boo Island, is one of the best dive sites in the Misool area. These are actually two islets connected by a ridge covered on gorgonian sea fans and large schools of fish. The famous window is on the south side of the big rock and it is wide enough to swim through, just mind your head at low tide. Depending on how strong is the current is, you should bare in mind that you most probably won’t be able to swim back through it.

You can see the window sticking out from the surface during low tide. The south side of the dive site is the most prolific on soft corals with a lot of gorgonian sea fans. It’s better to dive with current running north to south, when big schools of fusiliers are chased by trevallies along the ridge. There is a deeper ridge running south where it’s possible to see a big school of blue striped snappers and occasionally some Wobbegon sharks. This ridge goes down quite deep with a deep wall starting at 30m+ full of huge sea fans, so keep an eye on your NDL and pressure gauge.

Depth: 0 to 30+

Divers level: All levels. When the current is strong stay on the lea side. Deeper ridge for advanced divers, although on calm conditions it is easy to reach.

Marine life: Batfish, tuna, fusiliers, snappers, trevallies, emperors, napoleon wrasse, white tip shark, Wobbegon shark, occasionally manta rays.

Insider tip: the most popular side of Boo Windows is the south side, but the north part of the big rock is a really interesting place as well. It is a wall that drops vertically into the deep almost from the surface and it is covered in soft corals, really beautiful. On the north part of the wall there is a plateau where manta rays occasionally come to get cleaned, so keep an eye out there. It can be visited all the time if there are strong currents and is also a good alternative if you have seen the other side already.

Curious note: Boo windows were composed of two windows divided by a column, but four years ago, the column fell down, so now there is only one window. So don’t be surprised if you get there and it doesn’t look like the photos you have seen.

 

4. Andiamo

Andiamo is a beautiful dive site in the Damar area of Misool. You can get there only by liveaboard and the area has a series of dive sites where the soft corals are the dominant marine life, making them really colourful. Andiamo is the most famous site because it has a really particular topography. It is formed by two rocks sticking out of the water with a shallow channel between them and a seamount on the north side connected to them by a sandy plateau at around 30 meters. Both the seamount and the two rocks are covered in soft coral. The schooling fish are big here, especially around the seamount and you can find white tip sharks on the sand between the seamount and the rocks. The seamount reaches up to 5 meters from the surface and falls into a wall on its north side.

Depth: 0-30+ meters

Divers level: Beginners can dive around the rocks but the seamount can be a bit challenging if the currents are strong.

Marine life: Batfish, fusiliers, snappers, trevallies, emperors, napoleon wrasse, Barracudas, white tip shark. Occasional sights of guitar sharks in the sandy plateau.

Insider tip: There is a long ridge on the east side of the rocks. The top starts at around 5-6 meters descending to 15-20 in some parts and it is a good alternative if you log a few dives here.

 

5. Melissa’s garden

This is one of the best-known dive sites in Raja Ampat. It is named after Max Ammer’s daughter, the dutchman who opened one of the first dive operations in Raja Ampat, Papua Diving, and is one of the pioneers of the area. He explored and discovered many of the best dive sites in RA and decided to call this hard coral garden after his daughter.

The hard coral formations here are spectacular with a plateau at around 8-10 meters completely covered in all kinds of hard corals, it almost looks unreal. Big schools of fusiliers patrol the area followed by trevallies, napoleon wrasses, snappers and white tip sharks are also a common sights here. Two big pinnacles stick out of the water in the plateau and on them the soft corals grow almost until the surface. Around the plateau, a sloping reef goes down to a sandy bottom at 30 meters with coral heads. Here it is sometimes possible to see Wobbegon sharks, although the best part of the dive site is the top of the plateau.

Depth: 5-30 meters

Divers level: All levels

Marine life: fusiliers, trevallies, tunas, napoleon wrasses, white tip sharks, Wobbegon shark, snappers and all kinds of different reef fish. Turtles are also common.

Insider tip: If the current allows it, you can spend the whole dive on top of the plateau admiring the hard coral garden, because it is really impressive. Swim around the two pinnacles, where big schools of snappers normally hang out and look for giant clams growing between the “dunes” of hard coral.

 

6. Cape Kri

This dive site is located in the Dampier strait, next to the Sorido Bay Resort and Papua Diving. It is probably the most famous spot of the strait and, if you dive at the right moment, the fish life here is spectacular. It is not an easy dive site, so precaution is advised if you are not comfortable with strong currents.

The dive site is at the eastern part of Kri islands and it can be done with both, rising and falling tide. The reef goes out from the island in a sharp ridge with a plateau at 5-10 meters, and the dive site is the southern part of the ridge. Here you can see schooling fusiliers, barracudas, snappers, giant trevallies, bannerfish and a long list of other fish. It’s not a coincidence that here is where the world record of most fish counted on a single scuba tank was recorded by Gerry Allen, the American ichthyologist, at 376 different species!

Depth: 5-45 meters

Divers level: Advance

Marine life: Fish, fish, fish

Insider tip: You can often see a large group of oriental sweetlips in the deep part of the reef. Keep an eye on your depth gauge and your NDL because it can get as deep as 40 meters.

Be ware of the corner of the ridge on rising tide! There can be nasty down currents at the other side of the ridge.

 

7. Sawanderek jetty

A classic dive of Raja Ampat, diving under a wooden jetty. Sawanderek is a beautiful little fishermen’s village in the Dampier strait that got very popular amongst divers in the past 7-8 years. The soft corals here are so prolific that the poles of the jetty are covered in sea fans and colorful soft corals almost up to the surface. Schools of scads and batfish are usually swimming under the jetty, making this place a paradise for photographers. This type of dive requires very good buoyancy control if you want to swim under the jetty. You will have to be very careful not to destroy the coral and not to get stung by the hundreds of sea urchins that live on the bottom. So if you are not sure about it, stay out of the jetty.

Depth: 0-30 meters

Divers level: All levels

Marine life: Turtles, Wobbegon sharks, sweetlips, batfish, scads,

Insider tip: Papua Explorers resort started a few years ago a coral restoration project in Sawanderek. If you follow the reef south of the pier you can find a beautiful coral farm with a metal structure in the shape of a manta ray which is now completely overgrown by new corals.

 

8. Mangrove ridge

The mangroves are another typical dive of Raja Ampat. This dive site is in a little bay west of Sawanderek and it is really interesting, especially for those with cameras. There is a reef in the deeper section of the dive site, but the main attraction is the mangrove. You can swim between the roots of the trees and the corals grow almost to the surface. Here you have the amazing combination of forest magic mixed with colourful corals and fish. It is best to dive here when the site is directly exposed to the sun and the sun beams add even more dramatism to the place. Tons of tiny juvenile fish seek shelter in the mangroves and here you can also spot the archer fish. Mangrove ridge is a feast for the eyes difficult to find anywhere else.

Depth: 0-25 meters

Divers level: All levels

Marine life: Many kinds of juvenile fish, archer fish

Insider tip: Mangroves are the place where saltwater crocodiles live, so sometimes it is not recommended diving in them. These are beautiful animals, but not necessarily the ones you want to be in the water with.

 

Photography and tips

Raja Ampat is a treat for photographers and a paradise for wide angle photography. The soft corals are really abundant and colourful and there are a lot of massive gorgonians, so the photo opportunities are endless. Mangroves are another favorite for divers. The soft corals there grow almost up to the surface. Make sure you bring a big dome. You can get stunning split shoots!

Don’t forget your macro lenses though! This is one of the best places in the world to photograph pygmy seahorses, so it is totally worth carrying the extra gear.

 

Can beginners dive in Raja Ampat?

Absolutely! There are some dive sites suitable only for advanced divers, but most of the dive sites in Raja Ampat can be done by beginners. The coral reefs dominate almost every corner, so there are plenty of opportunities for those starting out.

Raja Ampat is a dive destination for all levels. Seamounts can be a bit challenging, but currents are generally mild and there is always the option of diving on the lea side.

 

How much does it cost to dive in Raja Ampat?

Raja Ampat is not a cheap destination. Due to its remoteness, prices are higher than in other more accessible places like Komodo. To the price of the liveaboard or resort, you have to add the price of getting there once in Indonesia, which increases the total price of your trip. After the global Covid pandemic, liveaboards are lowering their prices a bit, but they are still considerably more expensive than in Komodo.

Prices generally depend on which area you want to visit on a liveaboard trip for example. If you want to visit the north, central and south of Raja Ampat, prices start around 2500/3000 USD for 10 days of diving.

Nevertheless, in the past years, new resorts and dive centers have opened with more affordable prices, accommodating people traveling on a tighter budget. These resorts are mainly located in central Raja Ampat, around the Dampier strait and, even if you are limited to this area only, they are a great option if you are traveling on a lower budget.

 

What to expect from diving Raja Ampat from a liveaboard?

Livaboard diving is the best option if you want to visit the entire area. Raja Ampat is a very large area and this is the only way to visit all of it. There are also dive sites that are not accessible to land-based operations, making liveaboards even more interesting. Trips start and end in Sorong and most trips will cover south and central Raja Ampat, with some trips going up north as well. In the last years some liveaboards have started to offer shorter trips that skip the Misool area, making it a good option if you have a time limitation or a low budget.

 

Discover Raja Ampat onboard a private phinisi boat

What better way to enjoy your time in paradise than on a private phinisi boat? The Wellenreng liveaboard specialises in exquisite diving cruises and offers a relaxing atmosphere for your holiday.

The traditional but stylish boat is made entirely of wood. It has three tastefully designed double cabins with ensuite bathrooms, a comfortable outdoor dining area, chic chillout and observation decks as well as a spacious lounge.

Wellenreng hosts up to 6 guests on their private charters. You can customise your cruise in terms of route and duration and the friendly and professional staff will be happy to cater to all your needs.

 

Can you stay on Raja Ampat?

Staying in Raja Ampat was not really easy until recently. Just a few years ago, there were only a few resorts and it was difficult to get to them. Many new homestays and little resorts have been built in the past years though, making it possible to find a great variety of accommodation within the area. Most of them are located in Dampier strait and their price range goes from cheap simple accommodation to high end resorts.

There is only one land-based operation in Misool, south Raja Ampat, the Misool Eco-Resort. This is a high-end diving resort and the only way to dive in the south, apart from on a liveaboard.

 

What to pack and how to prepare for your diving trip to Raja Ampat

The weather in Raja Ampat is really humid so pack light clothes and bug spray if you are planning to go hiking or visit some islands. It’s worth carrying some Indonesian rupiah to be able to buy souvenirs or products in the local markets.

Phone signal is only available in the central part of Raja Ampat so be aware that if you go on a liveaboard you won’t have a phone signal for most of the trip. Nowadays, most liveaboards and resorts offer Wi-Fi, but make sure you ask your operator about it, so you don’t end up without connection if you should need it. Indonesian authorities have passed new laws concerning foreign visitors using their mobile devices in the country, so make sure you pass by the customs desk at the airport where you enter the country to ask about it if you are planning on using an Indonesian SIM card.

 

What else can you do apart from diving?

Raja Ampat has to offer much more than dazzling diving. The landscape of limestone formations and blue lagoons is spectacular, so a boat ride through them is a must. Bird watching is really good in central Raja Ampat and tours to see the bird of paradise are absolutely worth it, even if you are not a bird enthusiast. Snorkeling in the mangroves is a really special experience also and in Misool it is possible to visit some marvellous caves. There are a few famous viewpoints which you should add to your bucket list, even if the trekking up normally involves long stairs. Penemu is one of the most popular and the view of the lagoons from the top is truly amazing.

All photos in this blog post are by Jose Castellano, Biology for Divers

 

Shore vs Liveaboard diving

One of the biggest limitations when visiting Raja Ampat are the distances. The whole area is really big, so liveaboard diving is the best option if you want to visit most of the best places. Shore diving offers also world class diving, but limits you to day trips in the area of your accommodation. The best shore diving is undoubtedly in the Misool and Cape Kri areas.