Scuba diving in Galapagos – Exploring the invigorating wilderness of prehistoric times

Scuba diving in the Galapagos Islands you will encounter some of the planet’s rarest and most captivating sea creatures, in an environment virtually unchanged since prehistoric times.

For many, exploring the extraordinary underwater world of the Galapagos Islands is the ultimate bucket-list adventure. Nestled in the Pacific Ocean off the coast of South America, these volcanic gems redefine the diving experience. Galapagos scuba diving unveils a realm of unparalleled natural beauty, teeming with life found nowhere else on Earth, and an invigorating wilderness that will enchant outdoor enthusiasts.

All photos by Tobias Friedrich – BELOW SURFACE

 

As a UNESCO World Heritage site, Galapagos National Park is a sanctuary of pristine islands brimming with unique marine species not seen anywhere else. Dive into a realm where you can encounter aggregating hammerheads, graceful whale sharks, quirky penguins, enigmatic marine iguanas, and more. The sheer diversity of rare species is nothing short of awe-inspiring. Additionally, at the remote Wolf and Darwin Islands, you can witness vast schools of scalloped hammerheads, silky sharks, and tuna gracefully gliding by.

 

The Galapagos islands and marine reserve

Situated on both sides of the equator, approximately 1000 kilometers west of the South American mainland, you’ll discover an enchanting archipelago comprising more than 230 volcanic islands, islets, and rocky outcrops. The Galapagos Islands encompass a terrestrial expanse of around 8000 square kilometers (3100 square miles) and a marine domain extending over 45000 square kilometers (17000 square miles).

These captivating islands, along with their adjacent waters, are an integral part of Ecuador. Remarkably, out of the many islands in this archipelago, only five are inhabited, preserving much of the Galapagos’ natural beauty and pristine landscapes.

 

Biodiversity

The Galapagos Islands stand as an unparalleled marvel in the realm of natural history, often described as a unique biological phenomenon, an evolutionary laboratory, or quite simply, a world of its own. Astonishingly, throughout the annals of history, these islands remained hidden and unclaimed for significantly longer than almost any other equatorial island group. Consequently, the Galapagos have preserved their exceptional insular ecosystems far more effectively than their counterparts elsewhere.

In contrast to regions like Madagascar, New Zealand, or Hawaii, where the equally unique flora and fauna fell victim to human intrusion, the Galapagos Islands proudly boast over 90% of their original biodiversity intact. This extraordinary conservation is a testament to their remarkable resilience.

Today, the Galapagos Islands remain one of the world’s most rigorously protected archipelagos, even as they face new challenges due to their diminishing isolation. The Galapagos National Park Directorate diligently safeguards and manages their ecosystems. Every visitor is accompanied by knowledgeable naturalist guides who distill this wealth of knowledge into easily digestible information, with a mission to enlighten the global community.

Discover the iconic and endemic animal and plant species that have contributed to the Galapagos Islands’ renowned status.

 

What marine life can you see scuba diving in the Galapagos

Experience the Galapagos Islands’ unparalleled underwater wonderland, a place where the flora and fauna transport you to a prehistoric era. When scuba diving in the Galapagos, you will encounter a breathtaking array of marine life. From vibrant corals and algae to a diverse range of animals. Here is a glimpse of what you can spot and when they are most commonly seen:

• Whitetip reef sharks (year-round)
• Blacktip reef sharks (year-round)
• Bull shark (Oct-April)
• Tiger shark (possible sightings June-November)
• Whale sharks (best chances June-November, with August-October as prime times)
• Seahorses (year-round)
• Seals (year-round)
• Dolphins (year-round)
• Sea turtles (year-round)
• Manta rays (December-April)
• Eagle rays (December-April)
• Humpback whales (August-September)
• Pilot whales (August-September)Reef fish (year-round)
• Penguins (year-round)
• Fur seals (year-round)
• Marine iguanas (year-round)

While many diving destinations focus on one particular species or habitat, the Galapagos Islands offer an extraordinary diversity of marine life in its most natural and pristine state. This is attributed, in part, to the convergence of multiple ocean currents in the region. Imagine witnessing penguins, marine iguanas, hammerhead sharks, whale sharks, and sea lions all in a single afternoon. Not only can you observe these remarkable creatures, but you will also find them in significant numbers.

The waters teem with circling hammerheads, silky sharks, blacktips, and the iconic Galapagos shark. Eagle rays gracefully glide through the blue, while cruising mantas add to the spectacle, accompanied by groupers, batfish, snappers, and even seahorses in shallower sections. The abundance of vibrant marine life on display propels the Galapagos to the pinnacle of the scuba diving world.

 

Photography and videography

Whether you’re a professional photographer or an enthusiastic hobbyist, the Galapagos promises an extraordinary canvas for seizing the magic of the ocean’s depths.

With the revolutionary DIVEVOLK SeaTouch 4 Max housing you can now capture those precious moments! This innovative housing is compatible with any smartphone brand and model. It is waterproof up to 60m/200ft and is the first and only full-touchscreen underwater housing.

You can use the housing stand-alone or add accessories, such as a tray, floating arms, lights and a variety of lenses. A great feature for the pros is that you can connect it to your DSLR camera and use it as an external monitor. Alternatively, you can also record videos and take photos at the same time.

For a thorough exploration of the potential of this revolutionary accessory, check out our in-depth review here!

 

Weather

The Galapagos archipelago, situated on both sides of the equator, boasts a unique climate that distinguishes it from typical tropical destinations. This extraordinary weather pattern is a consequence of the islands’ strategic location within oceanic currents and their remarkable sensitivity to the El Niño Southern Oscillation.

These oceanic currents are set in motion by the prevailing winds, namely the trades and the westerlies, driven by the sun’s energy differentially warming the Earth from pole to equator.

The Galapagos experience the influence of four major currents, with two transporting cold surface waters and one delivering frigid deep-sea currents. In contrast, a warmer current from the northeast embraces the islands of Darwin and Wolf, creating a localized area with temperatures several degrees higher than the rest of the archipelago.

Despite their small size and isolation from continents, the Galapagos’ climate is predominantly shaped by the ocean currents sweeping their shores and their equatorial positioning. From June to December, the islands enter the dry season, even though moisture levels in the air remain relatively high. During this period, temperatures drop to 20°C (68°F), and the southeast trade winds stir up choppy seas. These months are characterized by the upwelling of cold currents, enriching the marine environment with nutrients and igniting a burst of activity among marine life.

From December to May, warmer currents prevail, elevating air temperatures to 32°C (90°F). Increased evaporation leads to seasonal downpours, fostering the flourishing of plant life and providing ideal conditions for land animals to breed. The Galapagos Islands’ climate is a unique interplay of natural factors that shape this extraordinary ecosystem throughout the year.

 

Best time to dive

Galapagos offers fantastic diving year-round, with each season bringing its unique underwater wonders. Many divers prefer the wet/warm season, spanning from December to June, as it’s often hailed as the prime time for scuba diving in Galapagos. During these months, you’ll enjoy calmer, warmer waters and enhanced visibility, making it the ideal season to spot manta rays and awe-inspiring hammerhead sharks. Expect average air temperatures around 86 degrees and water temperatures between 70-75 degrees.

On the other hand, advanced divers, among others, argue that the dry/cool season, running from July to November, offers the best diving experiences. This period is particularly popular as it’s the time to encounter whale sharks, the majestic giants of the sea. The waters during these months are cooler and seas can be choppier, with average air temperatures around 70 degrees and water temperatures ranging from 62-68 degrees.

In essence, the “best” time to dive in Galapagos depends on who you ask. But for those seeking a balance, May emerges as a sweet spot for diving enthusiasts. In May, you have the opportunity to witness both manta rays and hammerhead sharks and even a chance to spot early-arriving whale sharks.

Whale sharks frequent the Galapagos Islands when there’s an abundance of plankton in the water, typically during the months of June through November, with several of these colossal creatures seen on each dive.

Manta ray season usually extends from December to May when temperatures are warmer, and the rays congregate in significant numbers. The schools of rays around the islands encompass various species, including mobulas, spotted eagle rays, golden rays, cow-nosed rays, and marble rays.

Throughout the year, the Galapagos offers a plethora of incredible marine life, from iguanas and sea snakes to sea turtles and a diverse range of shark species, ensuring that diving in this extraordinary archipelago is an unforgettable experience, regardless of the season.

 

Can beginners dive in Galapagos?

Galapagos scuba diving is a thrilling adventure tailored for experienced divers. These waters present unique challenges, including the need for a 5mm or 7mm wetsuit to combat the cold. Strong currents, choppy seas, and other demanding conditions call for expertise beyond basic open-water certification.

While there are dive sites suitable for novice and intermediate divers, the Galapagos archipelago primarily caters to seasoned enthusiasts. This is especially true during the period from June to November, known as the dry/cool season, when the waters become colder and more turbulent, featuring robust currents and rocky underwater terrains.

Diving depths in the Galapagos typically range from 70 to 114 feet, whereas beginner-friendly sites usually stay within the 30 to 67 feet range. If you’re relatively new to scuba diving and wish to explore the Galapagos, it’s advisable to choose an easier site between December and June when the waters are calmer and warmer. Discover the best dive spots with varying difficulty levels.

Many Galapagos dive sites boast colder waters, powerful currents, surges, and reduced visibility, making them less suitable for beginners. Unpredictable currents, including potentially hazardous downdrafts, may pose challenges, underlining the importance of having the skills to manage such situations safely.

It’s not uncommon for divers to secure themselves to rocks to prevent being swept away by strong currents. In general, visibility can range from 10 to 21 meters (30 to 70 feet), although it may deteriorate in rougher conditions.

Open Water divers (OWD) and those aspiring to learn to dive in the Galapagos aren’t forgotten. Several dive sites around the central islands are ideal for beginners and training.

However, it’s important to note that the more advanced dive sites, where you’ll encounter the largest pelagic animals, may not be accessible to less experienced divers. Nevertheless, you can still enjoy encounters with a diverse range of shark species, turtles, sea lions, and explore dive sites teeming with abundant marine life.

 

How to get to Galapagos

You can reach the Galapagos Islands via international flights into either Mariscal Sucre International Airport (UIO) in Quito or José Joaquín de Olmedo International Airport (GYE) in Guayaquil, both located in Ecuador.

Most liveaboard trips set sail from either San Cristobal (SCY) or Isla Baltra (GPS) in the Galapagos. Convenient daily airline transfers are available from Guayaquil to both of these locations, with a seamless transfer flight from Quito (where you stay on the same plane).

It’s advisable to plan your arrival in either Quito or Guayaquil 1-2 days ahead of your liveaboard departure since liveaboard trips typically offer morning departures only. These schedules might not align with arriving international flights. The flight from Quito or Guayaquil to the Galapagos takes approximately 2 hours.

Traveling to the Galapagos Islands is a bit intricate due to their remote location. Initially, you’ll need to journey to Ecuador, from where you can arrange a flight to Baltra Island or San Cristobal in the Galapagos. To maximize your exploration of the islands, it’s highly recommended to join one of the numerous liveaboard tours, which provide comprehensive excursions around this remarkable archipelago.

 

Best dive sites

Española

Española Island offers two captivating dive sites: Isla Gardner and Bahía Gardner. Isla Gardner features a mini wall with a sandy seabed, lava tunnels, and caves. The currents are generally moderate, but when they intensify, there’s a chance to encounter pelagic species such as rays, sharks, and even hammerheads.

Moving on to Gardner’s seamount in Bahía Gardner, also known as Gardner’s Shallows, located to the northeast of the main Gardner Island. Diving here takes place around a sloping seamount. Typically, there is a moderate current, making for relatively straightforward diving, although divers may encounter thermoclines. This site teems with marine life, including schools of eagle rays, manta rays, jacks, Galápagos sharks, and whitetip reef sharks resting on the sandy floor. Mackerels and sea lions add to the underwater spectacle. Observant divers may spot garden eels emerging from the sand, and there’s even a chance of coming across the elusive red-lipped batfish. The rocky areas provide a habitat for tiger snake eels, scientifically known as Myrichthys tigrinus, which sport large, dark, oval spots on their sleek bodies.

 

San Cristóbal

Aside from the renowned dive sites at Punta Pitt, León Dormido, and Isla Lobos, some dive centers on San Cristóbal Island also offer the unique experience of diving in Wreck Bay. Just beyond the port area, you’ll find the remnants of the Caragua, a German transport ship from World War I. The Caragua is the only wreck available for diving in the Galápagos. It stretches approximately 100 meters (330 feet) in length, and divers have the opportunity to explore the ship’s remains, including its propellers and steam boilers.

The wreck serves as a sanctuary for various marine life, including schools of fish, playful sea lions, East Pacific green turtles, marbled rays, blue-and-gold snappers, and elusive scorpionfish. These creatures benefit from the shelter and protection that the wreck provides, making it an intriguing and diverse dive site for those seeking a one-of-a-kind underwater adventure in the Galápagos.

 

Santa Fé

Santa Fe Island offers two captivating dive sites on its north and east sides, known as El Fondeador and Punta El Miedo. The main stars of these dives are the lively Galapagos sea lions, adding an exciting element to your underwater experience. While exploring these sites, there’s also a chance of encountering the impressive Galapagos sharks, adding an extra thrill to your dive.

Diving depths at these sites typically range from 9 to 15 meters (30 to 50 feet), providing divers with an ideal setting to observe the marine life below. The average visibility in these waters typically ranges from 9 to 12 meters, ensuring you have a clear view of the fascinating underwater world surrounding Santa Fe Island.

 

Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz Island boasts six captivating dive sites, each offering unique underwater experiences. Many of these sites provide opportunities to observe a variety of marine life, including sea lions, East Pacific green turtles, various species of sharks and eels, and schools of pelagic fish.

1. Punta Carrion is a boulder-strewn reef, providing a fantastic introduction to some of the larger pelagic species found in the Galapagos. Divers can expect to encounter whitetip reef sharks, occasional hammerhead and Galapagos sharks, and the ever-present sea lions. For those interested in macro critter spotting, you may even spot the nudibranch Tambja mullineri, also known as the blue striped sea slug. The average depth of the wall is around 15 meters (50 feet), and a mild to medium current is typical.
2. Gordon Rocks, also known as Rocas Gordon, is a partially eroded crater around a volcanic plug, located just east of Islas Plazas. The outer walls of this extinct volcano descend rapidly into deep water, offering divers the chance to observe hammerhead sharks, Galapagos sharks, giant manta rays, eagle rays, green turtles, schools of fish, sea lions, and fur seals. Gordon Rocks is known for a rare sighting of a great hammerhead at a vertical drop-off at 30 meters (100 feet). The underwater walls are adorned with an abundance of sessile organisms, creating a vibrant and colorful underwater spectacle.
3. Islotes Guy Fawkes are four islets situated off the north-west coast of Santa Cruz. The sloping bottom and walls are covered in corals and sponges, with depths ranging from 0-24 meters (0-80 feet). Visibility is typically around 15 meters (50 feet), and the current and surge are usually light. Divers may encounter sea lions, green turtles, Galápagos sharks, and whitetip reef sharks at this site, offering an intermediate level of difficulty
   
4. Islote Caamaño, located on the west side of Academy Bay in Puerto Ayora, is suitable for beginners. Divers can explore depths ranging from 3-18 meters (10-60 feet), with an average visibility of 6-15 meters (20-50 feet). The current is persistent from the southeast but moderate, while the surge can be strong in shallow areas. This site features a sea lion colony, reef fish on the slopes, and opportunities to spot red-lipped batfish and rays on the seabed. Turtles, schooling fish, and occasional sharks are also visitors to this site.
5. Roca Sin Nombre (Nameless Rock), west of Santa Cruz in Canal de Pinzón, is rarely visited. This island is a remnant of an eroded tuff cone with just one large rock protruding from the water. Divers can drift alongside the steep, bottomless wall. There is a small platform 21 meters (70 feet) deep on the west side of the rock, providing an opportunity to observe Galapagos sharks, blacktip sharks, and silvertip sharks.
6. Punta Estrada is an excellent spot for both scuba diving and snorkeling. A narrow canal leads into the mangrove area on the east side of the dive site, where brown pelicans can be seen perching in the trees and diving for small fish. When the sea is calm, the west side of the site offers a chance to dive or snorkel with marine iguanas. Visitors can reach the site by renting kayaks from a small shop at Playa Aleman and paddling alongside the cliffs to the mangrove forest, providing a unique and diverse underwater experience.

 

Santiago

Rocas Bainbridge, also known as Bainbridge Rocks, form a cluster of small rocky islets situated off the southeastern coast of Santiago. The largest among these is a volcanic crater that has been infiltrated by seawater, creating a stunning turquoise saltwater lake that serves as an irresistible attraction for vast flocks of flamingos.

Islote Albany is the result of an eroded cinder cone, taking on the shape of a crescent. It’s located near Buccaneer Cove. The ledges of Islote Albany host an array of marine life, including blue-striped nudibranchs, tiger nudibranchs, and small fish. Divers can often encounter hammerhead sharks, eagle rays, and Galapagos sharks gracefully navigating the currents. Juvenile sea lions are enthusiastic companions, eager to engage with divers during safety stops.

Cousin’s Rock, or Roca Cousins, is a popular stop for liveaboard journeys en route to the remote islands of Darwin and Wolf. It’s an excellent spot for macro photography, offering a chance to spot bright orange Pacific seahorses. The rock is home to fur seals and sea lions, which venture into the surrounding waters to feed. Divers can also explore the rich marine life, including Galápagos black coral, frogfish, and larger creatures like green turtles, mobula rays, eagle rays, whitetip reef sharks, and occasionally, hammerheads.

Isla Beagle, or Beagle Rocks, comprises three remnants of a tuff cone located south of the southeastern corner of Santiago. The main highlight of this dive site is the abundance of fish, particularly during the garúa season when schools of black-striped salemas are prevalent. Additionally, there’s a chance of encountering hammerhead sharks and Galápagos sharks during the warm season, adding an extra layer of excitement to your dive adventures.

 

Darwin

Darwin’s Arch is undoubtedly one of the world’s premier dive sites, located less than a kilometer southeast of the main island. This natural rock arch, situated on a broad submerged plateau, offers a truly remarkable underwater experience. The site features sloping ledges, shelves, and small walls, and the currents are variable, typically approaching the plateau from the southeast.

Photo taken 2015

The main attraction at Darwin’s Arch is the presence of large schools of scalloped hammerhead sharks, which grace divers with their awe-inspiring presence. However, what sets this site apart is the frequent visitation of whale sharks, particularly from July to November. These gentle giants can reach lengths of over 15 meters (50 feet), with many of them being pregnant females. Whale sharks are filter feeders and open their massive mouths, over one meter wide, to consume plankton from the surrounding waters.

Diving at Darwin and Wolf Islands typically involves strong currents. The risk of divers being carried out into the open ocean by a strong current is significant. To mitigate this risk, diving operators equip divers with various safety equipment, such as whistles, emergency alarm horns, waterproof radio transceivers, and surface marker buoys, ensuring a safer and more enjoyable diving experience.

Research conducted in 2009 and 2010 provided insights into the daily behavior of scalloped hammerheads. These sharks tend to remain close to the rocky areas, often lazing around during the day. Occasionally, they venture away from the island towards the open water and return. The sharks’ navigational methods are not entirely clear, but it has been suggested that they use the geomagnetism of the seafloor. In open water, they dive deep, recalibrating their inner compass, primarily at night and during their encounters with squid, which make up nearly 90 percent of their diet.

 

Wolf

Wolf Island, located about 145 kilometers (80 nautical miles) northwest of Isabela Island, is a striking geological feature in the Galapagos archipelago. Rising 1,000 meters (3,300 feet) above the seabed and reaching a maximum height of 253 meters (830 feet) above sea level, Wolf Island is composed of the remnants of an extinct volcano. Unlike the main Galapagos Islands, Wolf Island does not conform to the typical geological formation. It, along with other submerged volcanoes, contributes to the Wolf-Darwin lineament.

There are currently two hypotheses regarding the formation of this unique geological feature. It is believed that magma rising from the Galapagos mantle plume either channeled its way toward the Galapagos Spreading Centre, creating volcanoes along its path, or the magma simply ascended alongside a fault in the lithosphere. The volcanic activity that shaped Wolf Island has long ceased, and its lava ranges in age from 0.9 million to 1.6 million years. In comparison, Darwin Island is younger, while some undersea volcanoes in the region are as recent as 30,000 years and may still be active.

The name “Wolf Island” pays homage to Franz Theodor Wolf (1841-1924), a German geologist who extensively studied the Galapagos and Ecuador in the late 19th century. In English, it was briefly known as “Wenman Island,” a designation attributed to William Ambrosia Cowley, perhaps in honor of the 4th Viscount Richard Wenman (1657-1690), an English landowner and Irish peer.

The island’s climate is exceptionally arid for most of the year, making it home to seabirds and the infamous “vampire finch.” Wolf Island does not offer any terrestrial visitor sites, and it remained uninhabited by humans until 1964 when a group from the University of California landed there during an expedition.

Scuba divers flock to Wolf Island for its exceptional underwater biodiversity. Darwin and Wolf Islands are often regarded as the world’s top diving destinations. These waters are teeming with marine life, including schools of scalloped hammerhead sharks, various shark species like Galapagos sharks, elegant Pacific white-spotted eagle rays, and even turtles engaging in mating behavior, all within a single dive. The surrounding 38,000 square kilometers (15,000 square miles) of ocean, encompassing Darwin and Wolf, were declared a marine sanctuary in 2016, establishing a no-take zone equivalent in size to Belgium.

To visit Wolf Island, the only option is to embark on a scuba diving liveaboard cruise. The journey to Wolf Island typically takes around fourteen hours from the main islands. An approved itinerary allows these vessels to spend four days around the northern islands, including Wolf.

Upon reaching Wolf, the liveaboard yachts usually anchor in a bay on the western side of the island. Divers then utilize rigid inflatable boats, known as pangas, to transport them to one of the eight dive sites surrounding the island. The currents around Wolf Island typically come from the southeast and divide along the shore toward the north and west. When these currents are strong, divers can experience exhilarating dives, with El Derrumbe, also known as the Landslide, being a notable site. It was once a tranquil bay with a shallow plateau inhabited by sea lions before being filled in by a landslide from the cliffs above. The plateau starts to slope more steeply at around 20 meters (60 feet) in depth, and it’s an ideal spot for divers to perch among the rocks and await the graceful passage of eagle rays, which glide effortlessly in the current over their heads.

 

Daily dive tours

Diving in the Galapagos offers a unique and unforgettable experience, whether you choose a day dive or embark on a liveaboard adventure to places like Wolf and Darwin Islands.

Day Diving

Gordon Rocks and North Seymour: On a day dive around the main islands like Santa Cruz and San Cristobal, you can have some remarkable encounters. For instance, at Gordon Rocks (Santa Cruz) and North Seymour (departing from Santa Cruz), you might have the opportunity to see hammerhead sharks. These are awe-inspiring experiences, even though the numbers of hammerheads may be smaller compared to the remote islands.

Kickers Rock: If you’re staying on San Cristobal Island, a day tour to Kicker Rock is a great choice. This dive site is known for encounters with hammerhead sharks, even in shallower waters.

If you don’t have the time or budget for an extended liveaboard trip, daily dive tours around the main islands of Santa Cruz and San Cristobal are excellent options. You can still witness remarkable marine life and enjoy some thrilling dives. You can admire a range of marine life, including hammerhead sharks, sea turtles, sea lions, manta rays, reef fish, white tip and black tip sharks, and engage in unique experiences like night diving.

 

Liveaboard Diving in Wolf & Darwin

Diving around the remote islands of Wolf and Darwin is an unparalleled adventure. While you may encounter large schools of around 50 hammerhead sharks at places like Gordon Rocks, diving at Wolf and Darwin takes it to another level. Here, you might come across schools of 500 or more hammerheads. The sheer magnitude of marine life in these areas is a true spectacle. Liveaboard trips in these remote locations typically last for 8 days.

The Galapagos is known for its incredible underwater encounters. Even on a day with less favorable conditions, the experience here often surpasses that of many other dive spots worldwide on their best days.

In the Galapagos, as with any wildlife encounters, there are no guarantees, but the potential for extraordinary underwater experiences is always present.