Diving in Dauin and Apo Island – The best of both worlds

Diving in Dauin and around Apo Island offers a unique bundle of extraordinary experiences.

You really can’t go wrong with scuba diving in the Philippines. But with over 7,000 islands to choose from, it can be overwhelming to decide where to go. However, if you’re an avid diver, there’s one destination that should not be missing on your itinerary: the quiet town of Dauin on Negros Island.

Dauin is a small coastal town on the southern coast of Negros Oriental. It offers all the charm of a small beach town combined with the convenience of big city life only 30 minutes away. Although there’s plenty to discover above the surface (more on that later), the main reasons to visit Dauin are under water. Originally a fisherman’s village, it now primarily caters to dive tourists.

Photo by Andrey Savin | UW.ART

 

Muck diving in Dauin

Dauin is known to be a muck diving paradise. Errrhm, a what…?! If you’re not familiar with muck diving, you’re in for a treat. Muck diving means looking for tiny marine creatures in the sand (also called critters). And although that sounds boring, it’s quite the opposite!

Here, the sandy bottom – which happens to be black volcanic sand – is full of the most bizarre marine life. The list of things to see when you are muck diving in Dauin is endless!

Photo by Andrey Savin | UW.ART

You can find different types of octopus – blue ringed, mimic and wonderpus, just to name a few. There are (flamboyant) cuttlefish as well asall kinds of frogfishes – hairy, painted, warty, giant and more. You can see different species of seahorses, among which the cute pygmy seahorse, various (ghost) pipefish, mandarinfish, candy crabs, harlequin shrimp. Diving in Dauin is a blast for macro lovers as well as newbies to the muck.

Photo by Andrey Savin | UW.ART

This list of critters is far from complete, but if this sounds exciting to you, the dive sites of Dauin will not disappoint. And if you are looking for more world-class muck diving destinations, be sure to check out the Lembeh stait!

 

Shore diving in Dauin

There are three great things about the dive sites of Dauin. There are lots, they have insane biodiversity and many of them are accessible from shore! Admittedly, there are few things better than spending a day out on a boat, but shore diving can be very budget friendly and allows for greater flexibility. Imagine squeezing that extra dive in the early morning, before moving on to your next destination! You can easily do that with the amazing shore diving available in Dauin.

Photo by Andrey Savin | UW.ART

 

The best dive sites in and around Dauin

This is not an easy list to make, as most dive sites in Dauin offer something unique. But here are a few of my personal favorites.

San Miguel

Sand, more sand… and lots of crazy critters! San Miguel has never disappointed, and is especially lively at night. Here you can see flamboyant cuttlefish, squid, different types of nudibranchs and sea slugs (Shaun the Sheep is a regular here) and many tiny frogfish.

Photo by Andrey Savin | UW.ART

Thalatta house reef

Located in neighboring town Zamboanguita, this dive site is often frequented by the Dauin crowd. Expect to see lots of frogfish, seahorses and the harlequin shrimp.

Basak

In the same area as the Thalatta house reef, so combining the two makes for a great day out. Basak offers a nice mix of muck and reef diving, and if you make it a one way dive you can often see a big school of barracuda’s at the end.

Photo by Andrey Savin | UW.ART

Mainit

Mainit is one of the few dive sites around Dauin with a strong current. This makes for an exciting drift dive. For that reason it’s not great for muck diving, but you’ll see healthy patches of coral while you drift along. Another cool feature of this dive site is that there are hot patches of sand, caused by the thermal hot springs nearby.

Poblacion

During the day this is not the most exciting dive site, it’s mostly used for training purposes. But at dawn this is the best place to spot the extremely shy mandarinfish!

 

 

Diving the famous coral reefs of Apo Island on a day trip from Dauin

If you need a break from muck diving, rest assured! There’s more to Dauin than just sand and crazy critters. From the Dauin coast you can see the tiny but world famous Apo Island in the distance. Apo Island is one of the oldest marine sanctuaries in the Philippines, and is maintained by the local community. Only 30 minutes away from Dauin by boat, most resorts organise trips to Apo Island multiple times a week, if not daily. Apo island is famous for two things: thriving coral gardens and lots of turtles.

Photo by Mikael Finstad

The corals around Apo Island are incredibly healthy and abundant, and many visitors claim it has some of the most beautiful coral they’ve ever seen. The reef starts very shallow, so it is for great for snorkeling too. You can easily bring your non-diver friends with you on the dive boat, they will not be bored at Apo Island! The turtles are literally everywhere and you can get very close to admire their beauty or take photos. Touching is not allowed under any circumstance! The snorkel guides and coast guard actually do keep a close eye on this.

 

The best dive sites of Apo Island

There are amazing dive sites around the whole island, although certain parts are closed off for divers. Although Apo is a very small island, each dive site has its unique characteristics. These are my favorites:

Rock Point East

This dive site is usually done as a one-way dive. With its beautiful healthy hard and soft corals along a sloping bottom, it’s great for both shallow and deeper dives. But as there can be a current sometimes, it’s not always suitable for beginners. This is one of those dive sites where you’re almost guaranteed to see turtles!

Photo by Andrey Savin | UW.ART

Rock Point West

This dive site arguably has the most beautiful and abundant corals of the entire island, and is very beginner friendly.

Photo by Andrey Savin | UW.ART

Chapel

One of the busiest dive sites around the island, and for good reason. Stunning corals in the shallows and then boom: a huge wall that drops down to 40 meters. On clear days, you can look all the way down. This is a great experience even if you can’t or don’t want to go very deep.

Cogon

Although the corals of Cogon aren’t as pretty as on other sides of the island, it’s still one of the best dive sites here. It is mostly done as a drift dive because of the strong current. Halfway through the dive you will often see a large school of jackfish here.

Photo by Andrey Savin | UW.ART

Largahan

Many people love Largahan because of the bubbles that come out of the sand. That’s right, bubbles! They are caused by thermal gass and give you the feeling you’re diving in a fairytale. The coral is beautiful at this dive site, and there’s also a small wall.

Coconut

This dive site is not for the faint of heart. I would only advise you to go there if you are a very experienced diver and feel comfortable in currents. They can be brutal at Coconut and take you in every direction: left, right, up and down. No wonder this dive site is also called the washing machine! That said, if you can handle it, this dive site is wonderful. The currents bring with them an abundance of marine life, and the corals are out of this world.

Photo by Andrey Savin | UW.ART

 

Technical diving around Apo Island

Although it isn’t famous for being a tech diving destination, Apo Island has some amazing dive sites below 40 meters. Dramatic cliffs, coves and caverns. You will imagine yourself on another island. There are a few dive centers in Dauin that offer technical diving facilities, but not many. The good news is that once you make it to ‘the dark side’, it’s very unlikely you’ll bump into other divers!

 

During your surface interval

Staying in Dauin

Dauin is a very relaxed town, and you won’t find herds of tourists. Still there are many different accommodations to choose from. From B&Bs and hostels to eco friendly and luxury resorts. There’s a nice selection of restaurants and bars. But if you’re looking for a bustling nightlife, Dauin is not where it’s at. Most establishments close around 10pm – if not earlier. However, if you fancy a night out on the town, Dumaguete is the place to be.

Want to take a break from diving? Although the main action of Dauin can definitely be found underwater, there’s plenty to do above the surface as well. Mount Talinis, a ‘potentially active’ volcano, isn’t just a pretty background of all those amazing dive sites. It makes for great hiking and exploration too! You can hike all the way to the top during a 2-day tour (go with a guide), or swim in the cold waters of various waterfalls. Just drive up to Valencia in 20 minutes, and the cool temperature and luscious rainforest will let you know you’ve arrived.

 

Staying on Apo Island

Most people visit Apo Island on a diving or snorkeling day trip, but you can also spend the night on the tiny island! Before you make a booking there are a few things you should know. When staying on Apo Island, you’re going for a true island experience because there’s limited electricity and no running water.

There are only 3 accommodations, so don’t wing it by just showing up: having a reservation is a must here. There’s not much to do on the island itself. If you think Dauin lacks nightlife, just wait until you get to Apo!

You can get to Apo by taking a boat from Malatapay port in Zamboanguita, but be warned: it’s a rough ride. Be prepared to get soaking wet! As you may understand from all this, staying at Apo Island is not for everyone. But if you don’t mind going back to basics, it definitely has its charm. There’s no doubt that this is a unique experience!

 

Best time to visit

Dauin is outside the typhoon belt, so you can visit and dive all year round. However, some seasons may suit your personal preferences better than others. February and March are considered spring, with ‘cooler’ temperatures of 27°C – 30°C and little rain. From April to June it gets seriously hot, get ready for temperatures up to 35°C. June until September is typhoon season in the Philippines, and although typhoons don’t usually hit the Dauin area, they do affect the weather. Depending on conditions, dive trips have to be canceled sometimes during this time of year. Rainy season starts around October up until January and brings back the cooler temperatures. Please keep in mind that these are rough guidelines: there’s nothing as unpredictable as the weather, and that’s no different in the Philippines.

 

Scuba gear and diving conditions

Water temperature

The temperature of the tropical waters around Dauin are pretty stable year round. The vast majority of the year the water varies between 29 – 31°C. From December to March it tends to get a bit chillier, with 26°C usually being the lowest water temperature recorded. Exposure suit choices are very personal, but most people dive with a 3mm wetsuit year round, or even just a rashguard in the warmer months. If you get cold easily you could opt for a 5mm wetsuit or add a dive hood from December to March.

 

Visibility and currents

The visibility around Dauin and Apo Island is generally excellent: 15 to 20 meters is nothing out of the ordinary. Of course, this can vary greatly, depending on storms or nearby typhoons. With the exception of a few dive sites (mentioned earlier) there are no strong currents around Dauin and Apo Island. Many dive sites are very beginner friendly. Accessibility to the dive sites of Apo Island depends on the time of the year: when one side of the island is calm, the other side tends to get rough and vice versa. While that may occasionally mean that certain dive sites cannot be explored, there are always others to go to.

Photo by Andrey Savin | UW.ART

 

Scuba gear and photography

The dive sites of Dauin and Apo Island don’t require any special scuba gear. Wearing dive gloves is not allowed (and will be fined) around Apo Island. In Dauin it’s not officially prohibited, but highly discouraged by most dive centers and dive guides.

Because of its diverse and remarkable marine life, Dauin is a paradise for underwater photographers. Bring the biggest macro lens you have and you will not get bored! Those who love to shoot wide-angle can indulge in the corals and turtles of Apo Island.

Photo by Andrey Savin | UW.ART

 

How to get to Dauin

So you want to go to Dauin after reading all this? That’s great, because it’s very easily accessible from the domestic airport in Dumaguete. There are daily flights going to and from Manila and Cebu, and less frequently to other domestic airports.

For those who are on a budget, taking the ferry to/from any neighbouring island is also an option. Once you’re at Dumaguete airport there are three options to get to Dauin.

By tricycle – The option first one is to take a tricycle straight from the airport, this will cost you around 500 PHP (at the time of writing).

By bus – A cheaper (and sometimes faster) alternative is to let the tricycle drop you off in Dumaguete and take the public bus from there. A bus ticket from Dumaguete to Dauin costs around 50 PHP (there’s a small price difference depending on whether the bus is air conditioned or not). The bus will drop you off anywhere you like along the highway, but from there you have to find your own way.

By minivan – The third option to get to Dauin is by minivan, but these have to be pre booked. Most accommodations in Dauin offer this service, and charge around 1,000 PHP. This, of course, that depends entirely on the accommodation.

 

 

Let’s summarize why diving in Dauin should be on your scuba bucket list!

• Easily accessible from the domestic airport in Dumaguete
• Small beach town with the convenience of a big city nearby
• World class muck diving
• Wide variety of dive sites with amazing biodiversity
• Most dive sites accessible by boat and from shore
• Some of the world’s most beautiful corals only a short boat ride away
• Not overly touristy
• Equally stunning above and below the surface
• Good diving conditions year round

All underwater photos are by the amazing photographer Andrey Savin. Check out his travels, photo gear and workshops at UWART.PRO!

 

I hope this article has convinced you to make Dauin your next dive destination. If it did, I’d love to hear how you experienced it and if you found these tips helpful. Leave a comment below to share your thoughts!

 

About the author

Iris is a recreational dive instructor and a technical diving newbie. Originally from the Netherlands, she now calls the tropical waters of Dauin in the Philippines her home. When not diving or teaching, she’s either writing about it, working on a marketing project or playing with her dogs. You can follow her adventures on her website Diving in Wonderland, where she teaches and inspires people to become better and more confident scuba divers. Make sure to also check out her Instagram and Facebook channels!