The myth of Manta Valley | Diving with giant manta rays in Cancún, Mexico

For a number of years I have heard the myth of Manta Valley. A place where manta rays dance around you in dozens while they swim inches from your face. It’s not the Maldives and it’s not Indonesia. It’s Mexico! I cannot say that I’ve seen it all, but I’ve been diving since I was a child, and ever since I became a scuba instructor in 2014 I’ve checked a few good items off the megafauna list such as whale sharks, sea lions, dolphins, and even orcas… I have seen manta rays a few times in my life too, both on the Pacific and Caribbean… But the trip we took to Manta Valley near Cancún left me speechless.

When it became a possibility to visit this mythical place in the Mexican Caribbean I immediately invited my close circle of friends to join this almost unique opportunity. I did mention to them that this is a place I had never been to before and the encounters were not guaranteed. But after many months  of pandemic lockdown they were all in for some adventure.

I did not have to search much, there is only one provider you can take this trip with. And it is not just any a tour operator, Solo Buceo has been a family exploration enterprise since the 70’s. Beto and Rodrigo Friscione (father and son) lead diverse dive, photography and film projects. They also initiate the discovery of dive sites and underwater wonders such as the now baptized Manta Valley. It is exactly there that you can dive with dozens of giant manta rays, off the coast of Cancún, Mexico.

Photo by Rodrigo Friscione

 

Getting to Manta Valley – An unforgettable day starts early

We wake up to drive at 6.30am from Puerto Morelos where four of us reassemble from different parts of the Mayan Riviera. Getting around is super easy and you can get excellent deals for car rentals in Cancún. We, however, manage to arrive to Cancún late despite our efforts to make a good impression. And so we have to walk in shame to a boat full of ready and impatient divers.

Greeted by Rodrigo himself, we immediately feel at home and we are invited to board. He makes sure we have everything we need and triple-checks if we are sure we would be ok diving sidemount as we had requested. We can change last minute if we want to but we are set on doing single sidemount dives. This grants us the “Team Sidemount” nickname for the rest of the trip.

Weather-wise, I’ve hardly ever taken a trip out with such fantastic conditions. The glassy surface of the sea reflects like a mirror, allowing for “La Precisa”, our boat,  to glide and make it to our destination in record time. The sun is bright and clouds are nowhere to be seen. It is just the perfect day. All we need now are manta rays but even without them a day at sea is all I need to feel alive.

We leave Cancún through the mangrove channels onto the turquoise waters between the mainland and Isla Mujeres. We leave behind all buildings, palm trees, light houses and make it out so far we can’t see land anymore. After a few hours ride we approach the area.

Usually, it takes about 4 hours to reach Manta Valley by speedboat. However, with the perfect conditions that we have, it only takes us 3h.

Arriving at the secret dive spot

Excitement grows as the engines slow down and the crew starts getting ready to inspect the exact GPS coordinates for the day. The extension of the Manta Valley is vast and spreads along a marine seamount chain in the north of Quintana Roo. Through time, Rodrigo and his father have been diving the broad location in a variety of seasons, spots and conditions. Thus they are able to draw a reliable timeframe and spot where the manta rays can be found. Originally, fishermen were the only ones accessing these remote locations during their long stays at sea. This was mainly because of the long navigation time and the need for good weather conditions, knowledge of the area and proper boat operation.

The manta cleaning station

The end of the fall season is the best time to find manta rays at the cleaning stations. But the mantas change spots every year making the unpredictable change a challenge when running trips like this one. Pulling off this trip requires several visits to the area and a bit of luck. Considering that the most windy season of the year starts at the same time, this is not an easy task.

Photo by Rodrigo Friscione

 

What species of manta can you see at Manta Valley?

Talking about the manta rays, there is still a lot to find out about the behavior of these incredible organisms, their numbers, migrations and habits, and even information about the exact species that inhabit or transit these waters.

The mantas of Manta Valley are thought to be either a variation of the Giant Manta (Mobula Birostris) or yet another species of manta ray but this has not been confirmed yet by scientists. Some characteristics of the now called Caribbean Mantas are similar to those of the Giant Mantas. However, they show other particularities that had led researchers to believe it may be a different species.

 

It’s time to get ready for our first dive with the giants

Rodrigo is the first one in the water, while everyone gets ready and hurries to sit on the edge of the boat for a backroll. He dips down on breath hold, comes up and shouts from a few feet away “They are right here!!!”.

We are giggling. We are also boiling in the hot sun. And we just want to hear the countdown. 1, 2, 3… and we splash in, swim to the buoy that marks the descent line and deflate our wings. As we descend, we see another diver swim fast past us. I try to calm down as to avoid breathing my tank down too fast. I realise there isn’t any current as we were briefed and visibility is great. These must be the most perfect conditions ever.

To my right there is our guide, who points out to me where I should go. As I am ready to take my spot I see about five gigantic manta rays swimming in circles. I cry in my regulator “ohmygod, ohmygod” and look for my partner, who is just as impressed as I am.

Our regs almost fall off our mouth as our jaw drops. We are to stay hovering in one spot while the mantas make their way through the cleaning station. There are now more mantas than I can count. Maybe ten or twelve that come and go but they are so big that I need to turn around to count them. They move gently in front of us, past the edge of the natural reef platform and continue, eventually looping around behind us, which is an opportunity to feel them and see them even closer.

Photo by Rodrigo Friscione

 

The manta rays throw a spectacular show

The manta rays approach the divers occasionally. One swims in front of my partner who is floating immobile in awe. Its fin flaps up and then comes down with a gentle pat on his head. It’s hard to believe the calculated movement and contact is random and unintentional.

With the biggest brain of the fish family, manta rays are thought to have the ability to recognize themselves, communicate, to be extremely intelligent, charismatic and with a particular interactive approach to humans. Manta rays often seek contact or touch divers but it is extremely important to respect the animal’s space and movements. Chasing them or petting them is considered against the protocol.

It would seem that the more mantas we see, the more mantas arrive on site. Time flies too fast and soon we will have spent 30 minutes at a depth of 25m and we all know what that means. According to the briefing, the dive lasts 35 min and the group must ascend at the same time. But the show is not over as we will enjoy a surface interval of one hour before jumping in again for a second dive. Hoping the mantas will stay for a second look.

Photo by Rodrigo Friscione

 

A thrilling surface interval

Back on the boat we are ecstatic. We have spent the entire morning commuting and navigating, and these 30 minutes of ocean loving joy are everything we needed. We have some lunch on the boat and rehydrate. Preparing to hit the water again, this time we have a super clear idea of where we need to be when we arrive down at the reef and what to look for. Before we know it we are already asking how long until we need to be ready.

On the boat, tales of fishermen, divers and mythical marine animals are told. Rodrigo has been diving since forever and has been in many countries and oceans but his love for the Mexican Caribbean is something I identify with. We are a generation of people who grew up on the coast of Quintana Roo during times when tourism was only starting, compared to what it is today. Both of us have seen the change, the masses, the unsustainable way of exploiting the marine resources and the declining of coral reefs.

We both share the urge to enjoy and protect places that hold secrets such as the Manta Valley. Both known species of manta rays were listed in Mexico’s endangered species act in 2019. This forbids their extraction and bans fishing them which is a huge step in ensuring the health of its populations and the conservation of the species.

 

Second dive at Manta Valley – More mantas than I have ever seen!

The excitement hasn’t faded out. It feels like a deja-vu, reliving the same dive, in the same spot, but with twice as many mantas!

We squat at the reef edge and take our spots. This time there is less screaming but that doesn’t mean we are any less impressed. I could even say the mantas are getting closer and closer. They are now everywhere! My favorite part of the dive is when they silently swing behind us.

I leave the platform and retrieve a little further back. Just to be able to see them swimming instead of their quiet hover on the cleaning station. Their eyes speak words I almost understand and make me feel connected. Their horn-like cephalic fins twist and turn and flip inwards and out. They approach straight, only skipping above us divers at the very last moment. They tease and play. Swing. Fly. Dance. I feel alone with the mantas, without even moving and having the most magnificent marine creature fill my dive with joy. This day, I will never forget.

Photo by Rodrigo Friscione

 

I can’t believe my eyes

Time goes by too quick and I know it will be a while until I have such an experience again. I am trying to make the most of every second when I notice the mantas start drifting upwards instead of staying put at the station. As if they are following the group that is preparing to ascend. They break the rhythm they’ve had during the last hours. We get a different view of them – their bellies and their underwings.

The guide has signaled us to ascend a few seconds ago and I want to disobey and remain down there for a few more minutes. I let the others in the group ascend first and I am the last one in the line going up. Right then I am floating about 30ft above the reef platform and I get to see even more mantas than before dispersed all over the bottom, dispersing sideways. Maybe 25 or 30 mantas in all directions get lost and fade in and out in the underwater horizon. I look around and I see Rodrigo with his camera, and I wonder whether the photos will do justice?

 

What is the best time to dive Manta Valley?

Trips to Manta Valley take place during the winter months and are organised privately on demand. The best chances of sightings are during November and December. As long as the mantas stick around, trips run as long as March.

The diving level required to be able to participate in this expedition is Advanced Open Water and Nitrox. Divers must be able to conduct their dive with minimal assistance and should have good air consumption. A minimum of 30 dives is also recommended.

 

About the author

Tamara is a technical cave diver and a scuba diving instructor in Mexico. She dedicates her life to exploring the underwater world through cave diving, teaching scuba and participating in scientific diving projects. She is a Cenote cavern and cave guide and a national park guide in Puerto Morelos, Cancun and Cozumel. Her extensive knowledge of the coast of Quintana Roo has been the foundation for her dive operation Cenote Girl and she strives to breach the gap between people and nature by introducing them to the aquatic world.